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This stout line offers a brief but intense 35 feet of pocket cranking on beautiful rock. Begin up unprotected 5th class ledges to a big ledge and a belay bolt. There is no reason to belay up here, so clip this with a long sling. Difficult cranks between big, sloping crimps lead up the bulge right off the ledge. In the middle, a few, big pockets offer some respite before reaching a horizontal break with some small sharp crimps, and a lot of blank stone above. A super-long crank to a decent, 3-finger pocket is the key to this blank stretch. Bigger hand holds but scarce feet lead to the anchor.
It is the next route right of Potato Chipper
, on a north-facing, dihedral wall.
Smithsonian bolts protect the hard climbing above the ledge. You may want some gear for the 5th class 'approach'.
By Derek Young
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dig the line up there. The "approach" kinda blows. There's a bolt knee height when you gain the ledge, but I just 5th classed it and stick clipped the 1st on the panel. Was there any thought to bolt the line leading up to the ledge instead of the 5th class scramble? Looks like there could be something there worth doing up to the ledge.