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Easy Gully Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Deep End, The T 
Hummingbird Crack, The T 
Snowflake T 

Easy Gully Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.5569, -72.7982 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,692
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 11, 2013
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Description 

While Easy may be in the name of this gully's buttress, easy is not the main adjective to describe the established lines here. With no route under 5.9+, it's clear that it is not a destination for inexperienced climbers (if the additional complications of the alpine-esque experience of Smuggler's Notch were not enough...)
The rock is generally sound and is similar to the nearby climbing in the Bolton area. However, since these routes see little traffic comparatively do not expect the same experience as a developed and trafficked crag like Lower/Upper West. Holds will be dirty, there will be loose rock, etc.

Getting There 

From the main parking area and the stone hut at the left (towards Stowe) end, hike steeply uphill for 5-10 minutes trending left of a clear gully and veering to avoid the steepest areas. This will eventually spit you out on a platform of large boulders in a wide open gully. From here you will have a clear view of the cliff. Hike up the loose scree/talus in the gully picking the easiest line (generally staying to the left). One you're approximately 150ft from the right side of the buttress, look for a boulder about the size of a couch on the left side of the gully. Immediately before the boulder you should find a faint trail that leads up through the vegetated ridge that extends down from the right side of the buttress. this will lead you to an exposed slide and the cliff in the area of Leaver Beaver. Contour the cliff to reach the lines to the left of this.

Climbing Season

For the Smuggler's Notch area.

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Easy Gully Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Easy Gully Buttress:
The Hummingbird Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
The Deep End   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 390'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Easy Gully Buttress

Featured Route For Easy Gully Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Hummingbird Crack" is on the right ...

The Hummingbird Crack 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Easy Gully Buttress
From the P1 anchor on Snowflake climb up and right to the base of the obvious crack. Climb the face to the left of the crack for the first couple moves and step into the crack. Enjoyable climbing leads to a fixed pin (possibly tied off with sling and biner). A tricky move (crux?) gains easier climbing, a placement, some more pins, and finally a bulging short headwall. Climb past two bolts, exiting right and back left passing a pin to a fixed anchor. Alternatively, big moves straight up from the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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