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Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
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Easy Eshi 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Ford
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: nicojah Parco on Oct 7, 2015  with updates from Ken Ford

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Best route of its grade at Amora Gedel.

P1 (5.7): Start in a big crack and reach on large holds, left and right, to a steeper finish up over a ledge to a chain anchor next to the one on Cracked Wheat Pillar.

P2 (5.9): From there there are some pitons and approximatley 8 bolts to a chain anchor. Note one piton is sort of hidden. The new bolts were added in Nov 2016 with the first ascensionist permission, making this pitch safer and more fun for all.

Location 

Starts right of Cracked Wheat on the last pillar before the gully.

Protection 

P1: Four bolts and a two bolt anchor
P2: ~Eight bolts, a couple pitons, and two bolt anchor


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By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2015

Fun route, good job Ken... Nice features and quality rock...some Nuts can really sew it up, otherwise kind of run out. Dec 2016 Update: no longer run out without gear, but still nicely accepts supplemental gear.
By Ken Ford
Mar 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This last weekend climbed a second pitch to Easy Ishi. Currently it gear only with no top anchor. Will go back later and install a top anchor and clean the route. Similar climbing as the lower pitch and once I install the top anchor it can be lead as a single long pitch (60m) or broken up as two short pitches. Check page for update.
By Ken Ford
May 28, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The route is completely fixed so folks get up on it. There is a chain anchor on ledge next to the Cracked Wheat pillar. From there there are 4 pitons and 4 bolts to a chain anchor. Note one piton is sort of hidden. From the top of the pillar clip a piton right and step right, the hidden piton is up and right in an alcove before pulling onto a ledge on the left. The second pitch rating is 5.9.
By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2016

Much more cleaning done, a few SS bolts added with permission of First Ascensionist, destined for super classic status at AG:)! The most fun multi-pitch route at AG! 60m rope obligatory, 70m probably best for abseiling the upper pitch.

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