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Easy Bake Alcove

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

Easy Bake Alcove Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 35.82217, -106.54039 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,572
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Easy Bake Alcove topo


Facing due south, sheltered from the wind and way up above the river, the Easy Bake Alcove gets its name from the Easy-Bake Oven as the area tends to bake even on the coldest winter days. The area is definitely best as a winter crag but fall and spring are reasonable especially if the day is cloudy. Summer evenings are also quite nice.

You'll likely be climbing in t-shirts on sunny, calm winter days even if the temperature at the parking area is well below freezing.

Getting There 

Hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River from the main Las Conchas parking lot for about 15 minutes (roughly a mile). You'll cross the river three times on good bridges. After the third crossing, keep hiking past The Sponge. Just beyond The Hidden Tower but before the beautiful Leaning Tower is a big corner/alcove up above the river. This is the Easy Bake Alcove.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Easy Bake Alcove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Easy Bake Alcove:
Crucial Taunt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Babies in the House   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Stray Capacitance   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   
Lightbulb Not Included   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
The Seashells Shall Shine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Autumnal Bliss   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Schwing!   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
The Color of Optimism   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Easy Bake Alcove

Featured Route For Easy Bake Alcove
Rock Climbing Photo: Crimping hard on "the Piranha" hold on t...

The Color of Optimism 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : ... : Easy Bake Alcove
Wear your optimistic-colored clothing for this one. For me that's orange. Follow a line of three-finger pockets up to a nice flake by the second bolt. Climb hard moves well out left via the "piranha" hold to a big hole and the third clip. Make a big span move to a sharp-edged hold out up and right, then punch it up to a nice dish and the fourth bolt. Engaging, lower-angle climbing goes up and then out right to the arête. Slap up the edge of the arête through one more surprisingly tricky sectio...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Easy Bake Alcove Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 14, 2014
The crag is a good addition to the area. Thanks for the FAs!
By skelldify
Mar 27, 2016
Several routes at this crag were covered in chalk marks when we were there yesterday. If whoever did that reads this, please try to refrain from making large tick marks on routes, and if you must make them, please clean them off when you're done. They're unsightly, and greatly detract from peoples' onsight experiences. Thank you!

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