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Eastern Big Horns

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Bear Gulch 
Big Willow Crag and Bouldering 
Black Flume 
Bosin Rock 
Burgess Picnic Area 
Crazy Woman Crags 
Florence Canyon boulders 
Highway 14 Pinnacles 
Highway 14a boulders 
Highway 14a Pinnacles 
Highway 16 granite 
Lamburger Rock 
Little Tongue River Crags 
North Beaver Creek Canyon aka Paradise Valley 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Grouse Mountain Trail #205
This trail descends from Grouse Mountain to the Mosier Gulch Trailhead (to Clear Creek Trail). Near Buffalo, Wyoming
William J. Mentock Trail
A beautiful, flowy ride along Clear Creek accented by the occasional rock garden. Near Buffalo, Wyoming
Clear Creek Trail
A beautiful ride from downtown to Mosier Gulch Picnic Area along a forested creek. Near Buffalo, Wyoming
Greenbelt Trail
A fun, non-technical doubletrack that parallels Clear Creek. Near Buffalo, Wyoming
Red Grade Trail System Ride
Red Grade is a developing trail system built by the Sheridan Community Land Trust. Near Sheridan, Wyoming
Tongue River Shuttle
Freeze Out Point to Tongue River Canyon TH! Have Fun! Near Sheridan, Wyoming
From MP's sister site:

Eastern Big Horns Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 44.79154, -106.9631 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,216
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 20, 2015  with updates from Emerson Takahashi


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69° | 44°

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HUGE block by Twin Butte


Sheridan is the largest town along the eastern side of the Big Horn mountains. It is home to most of the area's few local climbers, and the primary bastion of civilization for any climbers passing through the area. The town itself offers a decent array of amenities: gas, lodging, groceries, a few good restaurants and a couple of quality breweries. More importantly, it offers access to a myriad of quality crags nestled along the foothills of the eastern Big Horns. Bighorn Dolomite (like Ten Sleep and the Lander crags) is the predominant stone in these parts, but there are also a number of granite areas that have been developed in recent years. None of the crags around Sheridan offer the concentration of routes that can be found in some of the state's more celebrated venues, but there are an abundance of quality lines throughout the grade spectrum to be found. What these crags do offer plenty of is scenery (every area around here has a great setting) and solitude (you won't wait in line for the classics here). Furthermore, there are few walls in the area that require more than 15-20 minutes of hiking.

Most of these crags are accessed via Highway 14 (and Highway 14a which branches off of 14), a paved highway (open all year) that crosses the northern end of the Big Horns. This offers amazing access to a lot of high country, and a plethora of crags. Redgrade Road is a graded gravel Forest Service road that accesses a number of other zones.

Getting There 

Sheridan is in the north central part of Wyoming, about 25 miles south of Montana. It is just east of the Big Horn Mountains. Interstate 90 passes through town. It is about:
1.5 hrs from Ten Sleep Canyon
2 hrs from Billings
2 hrs from Casper
2.5 hrs from the Devils Tower
3 hrs from Cody
4 hrs from Lander
4 hrs from Bozeman
4.5 hrs from Laramie

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

259 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',35],['3 Stars',127],['2 Stars',58],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',3]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eastern Big Horns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eastern Big Horns:
DJs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tongue River Canyon : Big Bird Area
Edwards Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Tongue River Canyon : Big Bird Area
Big Bird   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Tongue River Canyon : Big Bird Area
Super Dihedral   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall
Chosspector's Choice Nugs   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 95'   Piney Creek Canyon : Trailside Wall
Bury the Hatchet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff
Vice Gripped   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall
Hera   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Huldra   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Sulphur queen   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Prospects of Paid Time Off   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Piney Creek Canyon : Trailside Wall
White Knight   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tongue River Canyon : The Knight
Too Tall for Twomey   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Second Wind   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall
Star Ariel   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Little Nemo   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Star tiger   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 75'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Bighorn Roundup   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 85'   Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff
Super Streak   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall
The Bermuda Triangle   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eastern Big Horns

Featured Route For Eastern Big Horns
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Streak

Super Streak 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : ... : Second Wind Wall
The technical crux is mid height, but there are many more difficult cruxes. The key is endurance....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Eastern Big Horns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting some strange looks from the locals
Getting some strange looks from the locals

Comments on Eastern Big Horns Add Comment
Show which comments
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
May 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cover of the upcoming guidebook Rock Climbs of the...
Cover of the upcoming guidebook Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns Second Edition.

Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns Second Edition is available at many of the local retailers throughout the region. Locally, look for it at Back Country Bicycles, Sport Stop, and Sheridan Stationery in Sheridan. Sports Lure in Buffalo. The Ten Sleep Brewery, Dirty Sally's, and the Rock Ranch in Ten Sleep.

If you want to go straight to the source and most directly compensate the effort involved in producing this, buy it from me! I have them on Amazon, or you can PM me here and I will mail a copy.
By Chris Jones
Apr 8, 2017
Is anyone interested in trad or sport climbing in the eastern big horns?
Developing a new multipitch granite area an hr from sher
idan.Bold Text

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