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Easter Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarians S 
Catwoman S 
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 
Dark Knight S 
Dynamic Duel S 
Egg S 
Elanor S 
Empire of the Fenceless S 
Evermore S 
Flying Beast, The S 
Joker, The S 
Knappweed Herbacide S 
Mr. Two-Face S 
Nevermore S 
New Road S 
New Test Of Men S 
Penguin, The S 
Pterodactyl Traverse S 
Rain Shadow T 
Riddler, The S 
Road To Emmaus S 
Surrounded By Reality S 
Tell-Tale Heart S 
Thunderdome T 
Trustafarian Panhandler S 
White Men Can't Jump S 
Willard S 

Easter Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,600'
Location: 39.9954, -105.4206 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,960
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.

    Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!

    FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.

    There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.

    L->R these are:

    A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.
    B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.
    C. Trustafarian Panhandler, 12 or 12+, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
    D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
    E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+ or 13-, 1 or 2p, bolts.
    F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.
    G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.
    H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.
    H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
    I1. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.
    I2. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    J. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.
    KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.
    L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
    LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
    M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
    O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.
    P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.
    Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.
    R. Unknown, ?
    S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    U. Rain Shadow?, 12, 1p, gear.
    V. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.
    W. Unknown, ?, 1p, bolts.
    X. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.
    Y. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.
    Z. ?, ?.

    Getting There 

    This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes. Expect 3rd to 4th class terrain to get there. This is not kid friendly.

    Guidebooks 

    Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.3 miles from here

    27 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',9],['5.12',15],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Easter Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Easter Rock:
    New Road   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Road To Emmaus   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
    The Joker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Mr. Two-Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    The Riddler   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    New Test Of Men   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
    Elanor   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Dark Knight   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Empire of the Fenceless   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Thunderdome   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Tell-Tale Heart   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Barbarians   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Egg   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
    Surrounded By Reality   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Flying Beast   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Evermore   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Nevermore   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Easter Rock

    Featured Route For Easter Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: Kava.

    Elanor 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
    Right of Tell-Tale Heart, this varied and excellent route climbs a steep, left-facing corner. Certainly one of the best routes on the crag, it is amazing to find this one undocumented here. Strenuous, but "marred" by an excellent rest above a tricky sequence midway. Milk the rest for all it's worth, because the crux is getting to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Easter Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Old relic, maybe from The Man himself?  Photo: Dav...
    Old relic, maybe from The Man himself? Photo: Dav...

    Comments on Easter Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 20, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 27, 2001
    I don't think this was climbed on much by "the hard men" before it was bolted. One of the best routes here is Elanor but it has several bolts where it's easier to place #1 Camalots. Route-squeezing has given this place a trashy feel.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 5, 2001
    I heard that Derek Hersey did a route on here that was retro-bolted, without his permission of course. That's really lame.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 25, 2002
    Don't know about the various controversies here, but I will add that this crag has fun, thought-provoking routes with interesting sequences...that stay dry in the rain!
    By ac
    Jul 12, 2005
    Can someone identify the several routes not in the guidebook to the left of Knappweed Herbacide (the 5.10 warm-up)? I see that "Chickenshit" and "Surrounded" are in the database, but I see at least 4 lines to the left of Knappweed.
    By Tod Anderson
    Jul 13, 2005
    There are three routes that I was aware of, Chickenshit, etc (takes the left side of the roof with kind of a shoulder wrenching move), Trustafarian Panhandler (up the center of the roof, rails to a burly lip move), and Surrounded by Reality (more to the right with the crux actually lower about half way to the roof). There is, or was more room for routes in this area, including second pitches as well.
    By Aimee Rose
    From: Bend, or
    Apr 27, 2011
    Is the trail difficult? Would it be doable for a 4 year old? Thanks.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 28, 2011
    Unless you have someone with a young child constantly there is plenty of potential for a child to get hurt at this crag (loose trail, drop offs and so on).
    By slim
    Administrator
    Apr 28, 2011
    Ditto what Adam said. The trail up has an exposed 3rd/4th class section, and the base of the routes is generally exposed, sloped, and loose. I wouldn't recommend it for a 4 year old.
    By Mandy Allen
    May 25, 2012
    This crag has some great routes, but it can get really cold. I went yesterday with some friends, and although it was nearly 70 degrees in Boulder, it was freezing at the crag. We climbed The Riddler and had to keep stopping to warm the sensation back into our fingertips. I would recommend this crag for a scorchingly hot day.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 2, 2012
    Does anyone have any information about the two new routes left of New Test of Men?
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 11, 2014
    There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience.
    By Mike Lawson
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 24, 2014
    Found a jacket at the crag tonight. Let me know the size, color, and brand, and it's yours.
    By OliH
    Jun 28, 2014
    PM'd.
    By Richard Border
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 11, 2015
    Found two pair shoes and blue ll-bean jacket. Get in touch!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jun 30, 2015
    This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of other dog & kid friendly crags. There isn't much room for the dog or kids to roam around here on the big, sloping terrace. Some dogs love to dig up stuff including around logs for terracing & into bat shit.
    Next, don't drop anything like rocks or your rope bag off the ledge. They will roll at high speed downhill crossing the approach trail. I have seen a rope bag roll from the base of The Joker to the edge of the tree near the parking.
    It can be a real zoo here & getting back & forth on the ledge below some of the routes is crowded.
    Lastly, pay attention belaying. It is too easy to get distracted belaying, especially here.
    By Kate K
    Apr 20, 2017
    A group left their guidebook here yesterday - April 19th. It was getting dark when we headed out, they must have not seen it. Message me with the name on the "this belongs to:" line in the front page, and I'll get it back to you!

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