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East Side

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(1) So Lo Wall 
(2) Windfall Wall 
(3) Hand Job Wall 
(4) Arrington Columns 
(5) Shakespeare Cliff 
(6) Midwest Wall 

East Side Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.36774, -121.12995 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,718
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Forecast:
Today

95° | 58°
Monday

90° | 58°
Tuesday

91° | 59°
Wednesday

92° | 57°
Thursday

91° | 55°
Friday

91° | 53°
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Past the opening crux on Handjob...the fun stemmin...

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Description 

The East side of the Lower Gorge contains a handful of basalt cliffs with plenty of worthy crack climbs. They're not quite the classics that are found on the West side and the long approach keeps away most climbers, but they're worth checking out.

Getting There 

Descend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive at the longer columns of the lower gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.1 miles from here

62 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',11],['5.10',22],['5.11',16],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Side:
Cody's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Mines of Moria   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch   (3) Hand Job Wall
Othello   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Azog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Sauron   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Puck   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Hand Job   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Margo's Madness   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 65'   (2) Windfall Wall
Original Sin   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Much Ado About Nothing   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Master Looney   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (4) Arrington Columns
Hard Attack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   (2) Windfall Wall
Yost In Space   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Feel the Bern   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   (2) Windfall Wall
Measure for Measure   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Hippo Wrestling   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
Rock Climbing Photo: A not so good picture of Measure for Measure. I wi...

Measure for Measure 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : (5) Shakespeare Cliff
The only bolted line on the Shakespeare Cliff. A fun start pulling over the roof gets harder as you climb up. The route starts working the left side of the arete but works both sides as the column narrows at the top. The crux comes at the 2nd to last bolt where blank arete slapping and lousy feet lead to a desperate clipping hold. Looking for others input so we can get this route information more accurate...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Comments on East Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 21, 2006
An easier way to get to the east side is to approach as for Cruel Sister and then cross the river. This works on and off throughout the year, depending on how much water is being diverted from the river. It avoids the unpleasant thrash between the So Lo and Windfall Walls.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
May 29, 2017
You can check the river level here to determine if the short approach (crossing the river near the Cruel Sister area) is possible:

dreamflows.com/graphs/day.560....

We did it today at about 270 cfs; two of the rocks in the middle were wet and it was a little sketchy, I wouldn't do it any higher.

Even when dry, the river-polished basalt boulders are extremely slippery... be careful.

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