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East Side Story S 

East Side Story 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Gaar Lausman
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,139
Submitted By: Gaar on Mar 4, 2008  with updates from Christopher Parker

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BETA PHOTO: East Side Story

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

East Side Story 

Park at the 2nd pullout after the tunnel...Drop into the wash and walk ~5min, looking for this broken crack system on the right splitting the headwall...Find a faint easy scamble to the base....Do an easy boulder problem to a good jug, clip 2 more bolts, and set up for the crux.. bust through and enjoy good jugs for another 5 bolts.

12 bolts plus anchors
Can be seen from parking area

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By Ben Folsom
Mar 4, 2008

Looks good!
By Christopher Parker
Jul 30, 2014

This route was definitely out of the ordinary for Zion. It's rated 5.11+, and if this wasn't Zion it would make sense. If it were me, I'd say 5.10d/5.11a(because it's in Zion). Also, beware of choss. It is not in Bird's book, therefore it's rarely climbed and accumulates a lot of dirt, making it more difficult. (Which could add to the higher rating). All in all, really fun sport route in Zion, and very well protected.
By Nick Coletti
Oct 22, 2016

I attempted this last week and was humbled by the initial moves. I consider myself a pretty well-rounded 5.10 climber, so I liked the sound of a well protected 11+ it was fun to hack away at the first couple bolts, but it became clear that I was out of my league. All in all it was worth it just to wander through the cool gully that it sits above. I will definitely be returning.

Side notes: There was a prickly bush at the base that wasn't making life any easier. I think a pad at the base would have made me feel more secure to go for the second and third bolt. The crux looks like its about halfway up and is protected by a fixed, hanging down draw.. Go for it!

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