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East Side SD

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Devils Gulch  
Palisades State Park 

East Side SD Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.50202, -96.63122 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Madsen on Feb 28, 2017
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Climbing for Eastern South Dakota 

Page for Eastern side of the state rock climbing and bouldering. The developed climbing on this side is located at Palisades State Park. A nice small state park hidden on the outskirts of the small town of Garretson, South Dakota. All routes here are top Rope. There are a few routes that can be lead. The rock here tends to not be very comforting while leading. It has a slick and at times ice coating quartz feel. Not to say that you can't lead here. There are plenty of options for placing gear just please be confident in your abilities. Summer months expect the mosquitos to be horrendous. Bringing bug spray is a must. The park has shaded climbs on one side and you can be in the sun on the other. Please keep the area clean. If your not climbing its a great park to explore!

Devils Gulch is a small free city park. It is formed by a canyon being split by the Split rock creek. Very dirty and not very worthy in climbing terms....

Getting There 

From Sioux Falls head to Brandon, South Dakota. From Brandon cross interstate 90 heading north. Stay on this road for 10 miles until you come to Garretson, South Dakota. You will see signs right before the town for Palisades State Park

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.0 miles from here

223 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',63],['2 Stars',85],['1 Star',40],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',34],['5.7',39],['5.8',31],['5.9',29],['5.10',25],['5.11',9],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',17],['V2-3',11],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Side SD

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Side SD:
Regular Route   V2- 5+     Boulder   Palisades State Park : River Boulder
Grenada   V2 5+     Boulder   Palisades State Park : Bridge Boulder
Hung Like A Horse   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Palisades State Park : A Taste Of Fontainebleau
Garden Path   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 50'   Palisades State Park : South Wall
Henry Aaron   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     TR, 65'   Palisades State Park : Chockstone Tower
Racecar Ya Ya's   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Palisades State Park : Split creek cracks
Stepping Out   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Palisades State Park : RattleSnake
The Bitch   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 65'   Palisades State Park : Chockstone Tower
The Son Of A Bitch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 65'   Palisades State Park : Chockstone Tower
Sweet Areta   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Palisades State Park : South Wall
King Olaf   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR   Palisades State Park : King Rock
Cemetery Gates   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   Palisades State Park : Harkor Tower
Glimmer   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR   Palisades State Park : Harkor Tower
Debutant Farmers   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR   Palisades State Park : Positron
Aloha   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 65'   Palisades State Park : Chockstone Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Side SD

Featured Route For East Side SD
Rock Climbing Photo: Workin it

I Seam Stumped V4 6B  South Dakota : East Side SD : ... : Bridge Boulder
I seam stumped is the obvious line on the Bridge boulder with the the old stump right below the crack or seam. The Crux is the last few moves. Start by smearing with your right foot and left foot. ( DO NOT USE LEDGE TO THE RIGHT.) Grab the cling with your left hand and the right with the lower crack. Begin to work your way up the seam. Top out is good once you find balance again. ONE OF THE BEST BOULDER PROBLEMS IN PALISADES....[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

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