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Ruco Pichincha
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East Ridge/Direct Route T 

East Ridge/Direct Route 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
Season: Whenever there isn't lightning
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: kiff on Feb 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 3, 2014

This is a really cool way to get to the top of Rucu, which you will probably do anyway if you're acclimating for Chimbo or Coto. Take the teleferico and hikers trail up to the base of the volcano's rocky peak. Where the hikers trail breaks right to loop around the backside of the peak, head straight up moderate-angle, featured rock aiming for the false summit. Follow the path of least resistance and keep heading up! I think you pass three false summits on the way.

We brought rock shoes and I'm glad we did. Once you get on the direct route, its almost all 4th and 5th class to the top. There is one thin section and one heady balance move that would have severe consequences. The route is mostly a scramble but parts of it definitely feel more like a solo. The weather is very unstable here, so be ready for wet rock even if its bright and sunny when you set out.

Rock Climbing Photo: Cheesing at the base of Rucu direct.
Cheesing at the base of Rucu direct.
By Chris C.
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2016
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

At some point the trail breaks into two routes, go right for fun, go left for safety. The route to the right is where you'll find the harder scrambling, maybe low class 5th. The route to the left still has scrambling, but it is less serious. You can go up one and down the other.

I did the whole thing in trail runners. Rock shoes would have been nice for a few moves, but I would have probably been to lazy to put them on even if I brought them.
By Carole R
Jul 20, 2016

Getting to the base of the rock climbing was easy: car, Teleferiqo, horses. We simul climbed most of the way up, placing the rope on certain sides of certain rocks so we could use them as emergency anchors should one of us fall. Mostly easy 5th class climbing. Placed a small purple nut and a red cam.

Then a hailstorm came and we rushed to top out. The rock was wet and shitty to climb on. Then, loud thunder boomed above us repeatedly. We were less than 100m from the summit when we decided to down climb because of the proximity of the thunder. The downclimb was dangerous on wet rock. A white out came in, and when it cleared for about fifteen minutes we realized we had been going away from Quito, the opposite direction we wanted. Luckily we found a rap ring and did two raps down to a red gully and found the trail. Ran down, soaked. It seems to storm every afternoon here this season of 2016.

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