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East Ridge 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1200', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: "Ted" Church, "Art" Fitch, & "Chuck" Loucks, 1968
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Mar 21, 2016

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Description 

Not sure about "Bomb" or "one star" but consider the quote (given below) before attempting.

After several attempts by various members of the FA party and others, this route was finally climbed in 1968, although Howard Palmer's exploration in 1910 climbed as high as the Footstool for a close look.

From a high camp near the footstool the FA was made in approx. 16 hours. Descent was made via the Standard route ( Summit Ridge to Hourglass to SW(?) Face to NW Ridge, at that time (mid-to-late-1960's) the descent was continued via the Ravelin Col and slopes leading to it.)

In private communications with this submitter, two members of the FA party (TC & CL) indicated the "rock" was decomposed marble with a granulation that approximated "BB's" (or "corn" snow). " You wanted a handhold or foothold you just rubbed your foot, hand, or ice axe adz on the rock and one would appear. "...was nearly an exact quote. (Apparently the same conditions were found on the Northwest Buttress Direct 4 years later.)

Location 

Climb glacial approach from Cairn Cabin to the Footstool. See Photo.

Protection 

Not much


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