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East Twin Peak
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East Ridge T 
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East Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5000'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Steep Snow [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Aug 15, 2015

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Eklutna Lake area from the ETP summit

Description 

Twin Peaks trailhead for ~2.6 miles to a wooden bench in the alpine where the doubletrack ends. From here, take the rough singletrack left and down to the creek. Cross the creek and either follow a rough trail along the creek to Twin Pass, or another faint trail with a more northerly trajectory towards the saddle east of East Twin Peak. Gain the ridge and head west towards East Twin Peak. At ~5000' the ridge will get more serious. Here the routefinding begins; it is beyond concise explanation. Pick your way around and through gendarmes and overly steep and exposed sections, at times on the north and other times on the south side, of the ridge. For the last few hundred feet to the summit, the north side offers gentler terrain. This route is more convoluted than the south gully, but with good route finding the climbing actually seems less intimidating. That said, pay close attention to your routefinding and don't get sucked into an overly dangerous spot!

This route is likely harder and more dangerous with snow; there is a lot of steep snow climbing with avalanche hazard along an exposed knife-edge ridge. Check anchorageavalanchecenter.org as a resource on snow conditions.

Location 

Eklutna Lake Road to main Eklutna Lake trailhead and the Twin Peaks trail.

Protection 

3rd-4th class. In winter: steep snow and very complex avalanche terrain.


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical ETP routes (climbing routes in red, snow c...
BETA PHOTO: Typical ETP routes (climbing routes in red, snow c...
Rock Climbing Photo: a typical section of the east ridge
BETA PHOTO: a typical section of the east ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the east ridge from about 1/2 way thr...
BETA PHOTO: looking down the east ridge from about 1/2 way thr...
Rock Climbing Photo: A class 4 section along the east ridge
BETA PHOTO: A class 4 section along the east ridge

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