REI Community
Middle Rabbit Ear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Church Key T 
East Ridge T 
Great Expectations T 
Gubbins T 
Normal Route (South Corner) T 
North Face Gullies T 
South Face Central T 
South Face Cutoff T 
Three's the Charm T 
West Face T 

East Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dick Ingraham, Paul Wohlt, Frank de Saussure
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Oct 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. For comparison, the Normal Route, considered by many to be seriously sandbagged at 5.6, is listed in the same document as 5.5, the West Face as 5.6. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

"A popular intermediate route. Go down the NRE-MRE gully on the east side for about 300 to 400 feet loss of altitude to where you can traverse right on easy rock onto the NE Face. Traverse this all the way to the Ridge itself. The first pitch squeezes up a crack and narrow chimney about 60 feet. Go on up the ridge on easy rock for a pitch. Then it turns into a steep slab split by some parallel cracks with rotten rock a plenty. Mount this, the crux pitch, by starting on the left-hand crack and then stepping across to the right one about 60 feet up. Above this is a steep little chimney maneuver. Then run out the rope on easy fifth and forth class ridge for four pitches at least to the summit."

Location: 

Approach from the east is recommended, now that it is available.


Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About