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Lee Valley and vicinity from the summit
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
From the base of North Guardian Angel, take the obvious 3rd class crack strait up to the saddle, about 70 Meters. From there follow four pitches of 4th class climbing up the ridge to the top. Be careful where you sit, the belay spots are covered with ants that want this climb to their own, and they'll let you know that. Some of the sandstone can be slick with a think layer of dirt on this climb.
From the end of the Northgate Peaks trail, find a small climbers trail that eventually dissapates, and head strait to North Guardian Angel, the peak inbetween the other two. Descend the same route.
Leave the rack at home, because there are almost no places to place gear. The climbing is easy enough that it isn't critical to rope up for the climb. There are anchors on trees along the way up that you can rope up a second, but mostly these are used for setting up a rappel. Take a 60m rope.
However, if you are on the more careful side or like placing gear, bring a light rack with a few small pieces of pro, it may come in handy. In addition some bail gear may be a good idea. Most of the pitches on this climb are very long if you stay roped up. It is not possible to rappel from belay station to belay station with a 60M or even 70M rope.
Closer view of the wandering route. You can bump u...
upper section of the route
Looking west from summit across Kolob terraces
BETA PHOTO: Chossy ridge leading to summit, Left Fork of North...
Kim on the 4th/easy 5th class white sandstone slab...
BETA PHOTO: This is taken from the end of Northgate Peaks trai...
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 25, 2012
I think the first pitch is more like 70 meters, not feet.......
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Dec 3, 2014
This isn't a climb, its a scramble. My non-climbing dad and sister did this in tennis shoes solo up and down. Don't bother bringing gear. Way less heady than Pine Valley Peak. only 3-4 sections where you actually use your hands. Fun route and definitely worth doing with some other peaks in the area.
From: Boise, ID
Apr 1, 2015
I thought this was a really cool scramble, but definitely be aware that you can find yourself doing 5th class moves on sketchy rock with huge exposure if you don't take the best route. I stuck to the ridge and had a few holds crumble underfoot where a fall would have been fatal, so be careful which way you go, it's a long ways down up there! Definitely worth doing though, the view was awesome!