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East Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Fryxell and Hilding, 1931
Page Views: 1,405
Submitted By: Dave Kesonie on Feb 20, 2010

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Description 

A great position along the Garnet/Avalanche Canyon divide. This route has a little moderate snow and great scrambling on broken but good rock. A short crux means you can move quickly if you are combining another summit(s) along the east-west ridgeline that runs to the South Teton. The East Ridge is a worthy objective in itself for early season conditioning or an otherwise short day.

This route is listed as 4th class in the Ortenburger/Jackson guide, but I think the two-move crux is 5th class and have listed it as such. I suspect my 5.3 flake crux is the 5.1 move referred to in Ortenburger/Jackson.

From the north fork of Garnet Canyon, ascend the moderate north-facing snow slope in midsummer (best season) to the col between Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce. Head up the east ridge of Cloudveil starting slightly on the north side of the crest (4th class). After a couple hundred feet, a few overlaps and a bulge/tower will force you to the south side of the crest. Traverse (left for 50 feet, then right for 20 ft) on 3rd class ledges to an obvious bottleneck only 30 feet from the ridgecrest. This 15 foot step is the crux (5.3) which has an excellent flake and forms a short (less than a body length) perfect/wide handcrack. Step right back to the ridgecrest and follow either of many weaknesses to the summit (4th and 3rd class).

Downclimb the route or get off by descending the West Ridge.

Location 

This route stays on the East Ridge proper except for the short traverse (50 feet) to the south side of the ridge for the crux step.

Protection 

The easy fifth class crux may be seeping until midsummer so some climbers might bring a couple mid-size cams and nuts and a short (30m) rope. Most will solo the route. Mountain axe and crampons for the moderate snow.


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