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East Ridge T 

East Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Aug. 23, 1934 by Ernest Scheef & Heinz Recker
Season: All -- snow-free by Aug
Page Views: 3,092
Submitted By: Robert Henderson on Apr 26, 2009

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Summit slope


From Timberline Lk the whole route is visible. Hike over to the gully that descends south from the eastern toe of the east ridge. The gully is nasty so, after ascending it for 100' or so, exit left on ledges to a gentle bench as per the east face route. From there, one can climb directly to the East Ridge on slabs west of the gully. When the East Ridge is reached, turn left (west) and follow the crest of the ridge to the summit. Small difficulties can often be circumvented to the south. At one point, the ridge narrows to a knife-edge, the most scenic part. Views down the north couloirs (they have been skied!) into Avalanche Cyn inspire care or, for some, a rope. After crossing the narrow spine, the ridge widens and is easy to the summit.
There is loose rock on the route except for the middle portion, but the angle of repose is less than the East Face. It's a fairly safe route if your scrambling skills are up to it.


The route ascends the gently-angled east ridge obvious from the valley floor.
Approach is by way of Stewart Draw to Timberline Lake (see area notes.)
Descend by the loose East Face route or (more fun) downclimb the East Ridge.


For the novice, a belay might be welcome in a few spots. In early season, an axe and crampons should be carried. Before July, expect the route to be all snow; July is mixed. The amount of snow can be gauged from the valley.

Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Rosqvist on the knife edge.
Bill Rosqvist on the knife edge.
Rock Climbing Photo: the ascent gully to gain the E ridge
BETA PHOTO: the ascent gully to gain the E ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Rosqvist looking down the East Face.
Bill Rosqvist looking down the East Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Esther Udall having fun.
Esther Udall having fun.

Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
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By Andrew Mayer
From: Driggs, ID
6 days ago
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

The climber's trail off the death canyon trail to just before timberline lake is well defined and easy to follow. 2 hours TH to lake at a moderate pace, another 1:15 to summit.

Also for those looking to descend the S ridge to allow for a loop down to static divide and the death canyon switchbacks - the S ridge is straight forward class 3 & 4 to the prominent notch visible from the lake (just north of the small tower). I descended the W couloir from the notch to the trail just W of the buck-static saddle but it semi-cliffs out and required some creative low 5th traversing (skier's R) on loose terrain. not recommended. perhaps descending the E couloir from the notch til you can wrap south around the tower to gain the buck-static saddle would be better.

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