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East Ridge T 
Yodeling Moves T 

East Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 6,261
Submitted By: Mike Epke on Jul 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: Below the arch on Hammerhead's East Face/Ridge rou...

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  • Protection 

    This is a class 4 route that where placing pro is unlikely due to nature of climb.

    Description 

    This classic 4th Class scramble starts at the base of Hammerhead and goes up towards the obvious arch. This arch is apparently the longest arch in the Flatirons and has some great exposure. At this notch, climb down a bit and off the rock. At this point, you have several options, one is call it quits, another is ascend the north face via a short 5.7 pitch, and the last and probably best option is to go up the west face ledges on Yodeling Moves to get to the summit block. Once on the summit you can down limb Yodeling Moves or rap off the slings on top. Enjoy this sweet climb, truly a class 4 classic.


    Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Two-Move Rock.
    BETA PHOTO: Taken from Two-Move Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The end of our second pitch, here the arch has end...
    The end of our second pitch, here the arch has end...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the arch which you climb over.  You ...
    Looking up at the arch which you climb over. You ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ropeless on the East Ridge Route of Hammerhead.
    Ropeless on the East Ridge Route of Hammerhead.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start.
    BETA PHOTO: The start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing above the arch.
    Climbing above the arch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The climber is crossing the arch, although it does...
    The climber is crossing the arch, although it does...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first pitch.  The crack in the fo...
    Looking down the first pitch. The crack in the fo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: A view down the E. Ridge from on top of the arch.
    A view down the E. Ridge from on top of the arch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The arch from the ground.
    The arch from the ground.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The arch on the east face of Hammerhead.
    The arch on the east face of Hammerhead.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob and Greg starting up the arch section of the E...
    Bob and Greg starting up the arch section of the E...

    Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Bryan Gartland
    From: Helena, MT
    Sep 6, 2003

    This scramble should not be missed, climbing over the arch is a blast. Before heading over the void take the time to move to the left a bit for a look at how long and skinny the span really is. I'm sure it's solid but I never feel like hanging out there for too long!
    By Mic Fairchild
    From: Boulder
    Jul 22, 2011

    This is a quality little route. Nice exposure and aesthetics for an easy climb.
    By J. Fox
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jan 31, 2012
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    This was a fun one. Similar to El Camino Royale on The Regency but a tad shorter. Worth doing! A few steps north of the base of the 4th Flatiron...hard/impossible to see from the Royal Arch Trail though.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 26, 2015

    A large pine tree has fallen down onto the base of this route, making the start more complicated, but perhaps easier to identify. The tree fell down the gully to the right of the route, and the branches and trunk must be negotiated to reach the start of the route (unless you begin from the very base).

    If you hike up to the left under the arch, beware of poison ivy. There is a lot of it in this area.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 26, 2015

    Has anyone done the 5.7 finish to this climb? I looked at it yesterday, but it did not look very protectable. At the far left end of the vertical north face, there is a sort of inset, which you might be able to climb up and onto the top of the east face. Is that the route?

    [Update: the Jason Haas guide says the variation isn't well protected.]
    By Brian Felker
    Mar 1, 2016

    Climbed this last weekend. Beautiful climb on high quality rock. Mostly 4th class, but about 5% 5.4, and extremely runout, as is typical in the Flatirons. The competent 5.5 leader will enjoy this climb, as you will have to make some 5.4 moves with a 30 foot runout. As with most of the Flatirons, every stance is a rest.

    Finish up on Yodeling Moves for a spectacular view. You sneak around the right side of the summit block to begin Yodeling Moves on the west face. Don't be intimidated by the overhanging appearance. Huge holds. We left a bright yellow sling with a biner on the northwest corner of the summit block for rappelling.
    By Keith W
    Jun 3, 2016
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    Wow! Great scramble! Excellent position, and super easy climbing. Do this route! We finished the evening on this after linking the regency and Royal Arch. Great way to end a day.
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 20, 2016

    Climbing on top of the arch is totally unreal. Anyone spy the crack forming width-wise right in the middle of it?!
    By mtnrunner2
    5 days ago
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    Beta if you are a 4th-class climber/scrambler. Bring climbing-specific shoes, i.e. climbing or approach shoes and you will be happier. The bottom 30 feet is smooth and has some lichen/green coating, so it leans towards woodsy friction climbing. Above that before the arch, it's fun 3rd/4th class like the Freeway ridge. The arch is more of a psychological factor than a physical difficulty. IMO the toughest move is near the end, where the bomber hand holds dry up and you need to do a frictiony move with a couple hundred feet of slab behind you. Similar to the last move on the first pitch of Freeway.

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