REI Community
search
The Spy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
007 T 
East Ridge T 
Spy Vs. Spy T 

East Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,768
Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down the Spy

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Another fun Flatiron route with a reasonably short approach. This climb is approximately 300' long. The bottom of the east face of the Spy is connected to the north edge of the First Flatironette. Climb this face near it's north (right) edge to a five foot vertical step, where the Spy becomes a separate rock. Climb over the step either on the left (5.3) or right (slightly harder).

    Now follow the narrowing arete to the summit. Very exposed and not much pro. Since you are on a narrow fin, a fall by either leader or follower could result in a pendulum down either side, and it might be hard to return to the route.

    From the summit, continue west and pass an overhang by means of a jump. Hike back down the north side of the rock.

    Protection 

    Light rack


    Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jen about to Jump.
    Jen about to Jump.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Killer summit and view. This is about as north as ...
    Killer summit and view. This is about as north as ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Michael Reese climbing during a cool May afternoon...
    Michael Reese climbing during a cool May afternoon...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Honorio white knuckling up the East Ridge.
    Honorio white knuckling up the East Ridge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Henson nears the summit and rad huecos on The...
    Alex Henson nears the summit and rad huecos on The...
    Rock Climbing Photo: For anyone who might be confused about the start: ...
    BETA PHOTO: For anyone who might be confused about the start: ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The jump at the top of the East Ridge.
    BETA PHOTO: The jump at the top of the East Ridge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the amazing view....
    Enjoying the amazing view....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down....
    Looking down....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Mac just went through what I believed to be th...
    Joe Mac just went through what I believed to be th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren concentrating at the crux section of the ro...
    Warren concentrating at the crux section of the ro...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren flying up the Spy.
    Warren flying up the Spy.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rafe Wilson on the first pitch taken from the bela...
    Rafe Wilson on the first pitch taken from the bela...

    Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 22, 2003

    A good combo is to do this route and then the North Arete on the First Flatiron.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 7, 2004

    a note about getting off of the spy: near the top, after crossing the flat blocky section, stay on the fin and belay off a big flake on the top. to get back to the ground, scramble down off the fin (very easy and safe - this is not "the jump"), then climb up the slab directly behind you. "the jump" is off of the top left corner of the slab. not as bad as it looks at first sight. if one of you is more confident than the other, you can sling the top of the slab you jump to with a tied off cordelette and tie your partner off to give them a bit more confidence.

    a fun route.
    By Mike McMahon
    From: Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
    Jun 17, 2007

    The Spy is actually a good climb with really solid holds. Seeing the level of exposure on all sides, if nothing else, a rope would have been a pychological booster! I'm not sure where the 'jump' was, it's been a while, but I remember getting off the summit as being pretty straight-forward.
    By Ebb Ebbing
    From: Vancouver, WA
    Jul 23, 2008
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R

    There's a real nice photo up above of "the jump." Definitely unnerving the first time you try it, but it looks much worse (from the jumper's vantage point) than it is! :)
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 7, 2009

    This is a cool scramble with the exposure on both sides! Complete psychological mind trip! Be careful to descend to the north, as to the south it cliffs out. Maybe it was the snow, but I got mildly trapped about 20 feet over some pointy rocks while trying to get to the standard face of the first.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 16, 2009

    Great exposure on the thin rib! I found this to be a little more mentally challenging than most easy Flatirons climbs, but it really made for a unique experience.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    Mar 20, 2011

    Despite the crappy first pitch and the too short length, I keep coming back. Really fun solo to link with North Arete on the 1st. Wish it was longer!
    By Rob Nevitt
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jul 25, 2013

    For those of you who prefer the safety of a rope... I led the first pitch. About 30 feet above the 5-foot vertical step I was found a reasonable belay crack. I was able to get 4 of my smallest pieces to build a solid anchor, and, in retrospect, I would not have been able to build a multi-piece anchor any higher. My partner Dale led the 2nd = crux pitch. Above the belay, Dale placed 2 or 3 pieces before the crux where there was absolutely no gear which made the runout deserving of the R rating. At the top of the crux, protection was again available. Dale set up a belay at the summit immediately before 'the jump', though this used every bit of our 60 meter rope.

    'The jump' was reasonable. I would agree that this climb requires more care than the average east face scramble because of the continuous exposure.
    By Ryan Marsters
    Aug 13, 2014
    rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13

    The jump is easy, but it can also be easily downclimbed. Turn around and lower off the edge slightly descender's right of the jump to hidden but big feet.

    The crux step had three options - left (5.0ish), right (5.3), or a crack center left (5.6ish move).

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About