Ivan Rezucha fishes out a draw for his next clip. ...
The East Ridge is the area located above the Industrial Wall on the top of the Mouse Ears Crag. To approach this "complex" series of rocks, start at the mouth of the tunnel at the base of Mickey Mouse. Head north up a faint trail on the east side of the tracks that continues to the top of the ridge. From here the trail turns to the west and climbs up the ridge. There are a few cairns here and there to mark the way, but the general direction is pretty obvious. The goal to to cut back south and top out on the ridge followed by a class 4 downclimb to the base of the south side of the ridge. The best place to do this is a gully with a cairn on its west side. After the downclimb there are a couple of options depending on where one wishes to climb. To reach The Corridor, look up the hill and locate a large Douglas Fir at the mouth of a "corridor"/gully between two rock walls. Then simply scramble up there. Reaching The Garden of Stone requires that one continues southwest across the hillside to access the other side of the next ridge. Rossiter's book has a nice overhead drawing of the area on page 97 as well as some descriptions on how to get to each of these rocks. I didn't find the climbing on the East Ridge to be particularly good. However, most of the routes there seem not to be repeated too often, so there's definitely no chalk marks to "marr" the onsight attempt.
If you can't find it after all that and using a guidebook, you don't deserve to climb there. Also a quick note on climbing here during the summer (August): it's something like Tom Selleck in Hawaii...that's right, there's Magnum "P.I." Just wear long pants.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For East Ridge
Little King 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
: ... : East Ridge
About 20 feet climber's left (west) of P.B.S. lies a flat terrace with a horizontal tree. Little King ascends heavily Huecoed rock to a dangerous first clip. The route climbs past six bolts and a fixed pin near the bottom. The upper headwall is airy and challenging climbing but not as fierce as it might appear from the start....[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado