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Mt. Clarence King
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East Face - Ramp Route T 
East Ridge Indirect T 
North East Ridge (full) T 

East Ridge Indirect 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Owen and Fred Batliner August 1992
Page Views: 1,150
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jul 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Routes on Mt. Clarence King


First Section (CL3):
Class 3 scrambling gains the North East Ridge, which is initially almost a plateau; it narrows as you begin to gain height. Evenually the first big step in the ridge is reached, where the ridge levels off momentarily.

Second Section (CL4)
On the left a ramp/ledge system runs across the east face - follow this first downwards then gradually up to the huge broken pillar which runs up the face.

Third Section (5.7)
Two exposed crack pitches lead up this top part of the pillar. The second pitch follows a crack to end at a roof, where a hand traverse heads left, then up a short crack to finish at the second notch east of the summit.

Scrambling leads from here to the summit block.

Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4).


Approach from Sixty Lake Basin (to the east).

Starts along the Northeast Ridge but detours onto the East Face.


Small trad rack - passives work fine.

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 25, 2007

On the way back to Onion Valley we met the widow of Standish Mitchell on Kearsarge Pass - who did the first ascent of the East Ridge complete (I 5.4). She was very pleased to hear that we had climbed his route (or at least part of it). His son was there too - he was scrambling up to the summit of Mount Gould at the time.

She told us that her late husband was a pilot in WW2 and often flew over the High Sierra scoping out new route possibilities.
By Pavel K
Nov 18, 2007

Is this description really for NE ridge? Can you please check out attached link to what I thought was NE ridge and see whether we are talking about the same route?

It seems to me that you are referring to East ridge?

By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 30, 2007

You're right, I've changed it.

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