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Billy from the Hills T 
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Daphne T 
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 
East Arete T 
East Ridge Fins + Towers T 
East Ridge indirect T 
Gendarmes, The T 
Left East Arete T 
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Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 
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East Ridge Fins + Towers 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 8, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Several fun exciting 5th class sections on interesting granite fins and (seven?) towers.

The idea is to seek out interesting climbing on or close to the crest of the ridge, and up and over significant towers - (not to avoid the difficulties or to save time).
. . Of course it could be done without any sequences as difficult as 5.5/5.6, but that's not the goal of this route. If want easier/quicker, do the 3rd/4th class route just left of this. (or some climbers might find more sequences harder than 5.6).

. . The lower part had lots of hiking/scrambling on talus or sand, but later the talus scrambling started feeling interesting enough.

. . Closer to the trailhead than some of the other fun scrambles in this region. And the Mono Pass trail approach is pleasant with pretty views (one of the best hikes in Sierra (or the United States?).

. . Gives access to interesting 5th class ridge traverse to north and perhaps more so to the south ("the Gendarmes") from the summit.


Base of East ridge at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.4097 W118.7707). This can be reached from the Mosquito Flat trailhead parking (N37.4352 W118.7470) - (elevation 10240ft / 3122m) by hiking up the Mono Pass trail then taking a left turn for Ruby Lake. Then scramble/hike on talus around east side of lake and cross creek to reach base of ridge - (or around west side of lake, which might be useful for joining the ridge higher up).


No fixed hardware for anchors or intermediage protection.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

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