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The Adamants
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adamant- Turret- Austerity Traverse T 
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 
East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 
Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T 
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall")  T 
West Buttress of the Horn T 
Unsorted Routes:

East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Ben Ferris, Andy Kaufmann & W.L.Putnam Jul 1948
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jan 27, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: East Peak of Gothics from East Ridge of Pioneer


An interesting, modest climb to a summit with amazing views. Easily combined with an ascent of Pioneer.

From the Pioneer-Gothics col climb the (usually) snow slope up the north/northeast ridge until stopped by a prominent rock step.

Here the original route traverses to the left on slab (snow covered in 1948, ice covered when we did it, possibly rock slab today) Considerable exposure here! (I used a short-thin Lost Arrow for "protection".)

Make the traverse to an obvious crack / chimney in the rock (Variations) and climb this to the top of the step. Continue on easier rock to the summit.

1) Climb the face a few feet right of the crack. (5.4)
2) "West Bypass" 5.4 - From belay at base of the step, climb up and right 30-35 ft, then to an overhanging traverse 15-20 ft, then up a chimney.


Short-thin Lost Arrow piton (or knifeblade), maybe a small assortment of nuts/cams for the crack.

Photos of East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Traverse" Left on slabs
BETA PHOTO: The "Traverse" Left on slabs

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