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East Of Eden 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter & Gordon Douglass 1978/9
Season: Spring thru Fall
Page Views: 6,614
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on May 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Emily. East of Eden. photo by Mat Jacobson.


East of Eden is one of the Forks 5.10 classics.

It's long, steep and just hard enough to be lots of fun. Start by face climbing up blocky rock to get into the steep crack system. Continue up to a section where fingers in the corner leads to a sort of "V" formed by tight hands size cracks. This is the business. Get through this and it's easier to the rim.

IMHO, this is one of the MUST DO routes at the Forks.


Located right below the Ansel Adams tree, a gnarled juniper tree perched right on the canyon rim. A sort of ramp leads down to the rim below the west side of the tree and that's the top of the route. You can establish a rap off a large clean pine straight above this point and about 35 feet back from the rim.


Good assortment of nuts and cams from small up to #2 Camalot. Take extras between #0.5 and #1 Camalot size.

Photos of East Of Eden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: East of Eden
East of Eden
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Baxter leading on the 1st(?) ascent of East ...
Scott Baxter leading on the 1st(?) ascent of East ...
Rock Climbing Photo: East of Eden.  Photo by June from rimtop across th...
East of Eden. Photo by June from rimtop across th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Foster warming it up...
Dan Foster warming it up...

Comments on East Of Eden Add Comment
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By Gordon Douglass
Jun 6, 2006

Scott Baxter and I did the first ascent of East of Eden back in 1978 or 1979. We rated it 5.9+ back then.

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 1, 2008

With all due respect to the venerable first ascensionists and based on my experience, this route is closer to 5.11 than 5.9. It's not 5.11 or 5.9. By today's standards, calling East of Eden 5.9 would be a sandbag (not that there's anything wrong with that).
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Oct 22, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.9+ man that's classic. I found it to be a pretty stiff 5.10 personally. In any case a great, long route with full value climbing.
By talkinrocks
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Felt awfully hard for a 5.10-, but I am out of shape. Super fun and hard at the crux. Too thin for comfortable jams.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 21, 2011

Next summer 2012, if I still live in the state, I will lead this climb. ....just thought if I documented this desire now, then it will happen. And hopefully I can get a snazzy pic like Emily. Not that the rest of you fine fellows aren't lookin' good, but ya know, girl pics climbing hard is fun too.
By David Arthur Sampson
May 30, 2012

Bloom gives this route a 5.10 rating. I think this may be my favorite route at the Forks to-date. Of course, I may change my opinion as I get stronger, but for now ....
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The size you want more of are green Camalots (.75). You could easily place three, maybe even four. Bring plenty of slings too.

There are also some weird backward flares where the lip is pinched but it opens up behind where stoppers would feel much more solid.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

You don't need 4 of anything. Nuts work great in many key spots. I like a 4 too, down low.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

As to grade I think the pre-friend climbers were so strong they got on one at forks that wasn't as splitter and ate up nuts and felt snug and cozy.

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