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Andrology T 
CG's Naked Fun Time S 
Dynamometer T,S 
East of Eden S,TR 
Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Oreivatis Rex T 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 
Unknown S 

East of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: TR: Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1987
Page Views: 2,944
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001  with updates from Josh Vondran

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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...


This route if located at the top of the trail, on the face just left of "Edge of Time". You can scramble to the top of this wall by continuing to the top of the trail, turning right and then going in between the two [obvious] walls, scramble up to your right to get on top of the wall. This description seems vague, but when you are there, it is pretty obvious, sorry.

This route climbs just left of Edge of Time as indicated and is decent climbing on top rope, not suggested to be lead, unless it is retrobolted.


Anchor on top for top roping - old anchor with 3 old sleeved and 2 new - If leading on natural gear - good luck!

Eds. apparently this pitch has been retrobolted. Per Josh Vondran: this route is now bolted with 6 bolts and 2 anchors (with a quicklink for each anchor bolt).

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By allen simons
Aug 22, 2011

Led this the other day thinking it was the stiffest 5.7 I had been on in a while. Turns out it is 5.9. Note to self, bring my guidebook next time, but it was an exciting lead and fun.
By Jeremy Jones
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you use the tree, it is much easier, maybe 5.7 to 5.8. I did think the crux (between bolt one and two) was harder than a 5.9-. I was burned out, last climb of the day, but it felt like a two move 5.10a at the crux. The route was awesome!!!! Thanks, Lisa G. and Lance T., for climbing with me.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not sure if East of Eden has been bolted or if there's a new route further left. Nice route, and well worth climbing. The bolted line is left of Lost Time. (Lost Time is correctly described as being about 10 ft left of Edge of Time.) The bolted line is about another 40 ft further left and is well bolted.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 24, 2013

After a huge guided school group departed, this route was in the shade. I found excellent face climbing protected by six bolts and and good placements (#0.5 and #1 Camalots) in a horizontal above the second bolt.
From: Moab, UT
Sep 9, 2013

The info on this route is confusing on here, so I thought I could clarify.... I went up to Jurassic Park a few days ago.... East of Eden is directly to the left of Lost Time, and it has brand new bolts on it - enough that you do not need any Trad gear for the climb. I felt that it was a moderate 5.9 with hard to find, but it has good feet and slopey hand holds. It was a good warm up for the sketchy, run out Edge of Time.
Rock Climbing Photo: A clear, frontal view of East of Eden and its fres...
A clear, frontal view of East of Eden and its fresh bolts (with draws in them).

Rock Climbing Photo: A stormy day at Jurassic Park - Erick Kelly near t...
A stormy day at Jurassic Park - Erick Kelly near the top of East of Eden on lead.
By Josh Vondran
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route has been bolted. There are 6 bolts (although the first is so close to the ground that it is basically useless/the second bolt can be stick clipped if you have a long enough pole) and 2 anchors.

While this route is rated a 5.9, I definitely wouldn't rate it that myself. While some holds can be difficult to find, they are all good. The feet are great on this route too. Personally, I would give it a 5.7+ (I have been on a 5.7 climb in RRG that was much more difficult that this climb). Much like Allen Simons, I too thought it was a 5.7-5.8 going into the climb, so it was nice to learn that I had successfully lead and onsighted my first 5.9 (regardless of what I would have rated it) outside!
By DangerD
Aug 5, 2016

Fun climb, a nice warm-up in the area. I'd call it a 8 or 8+, though shorter people may have a harder time. The route was well protected with bolts, but one of the quicklinks at the top was twisted and looked pretty sketchy. Definitely could be replaced.

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