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East Mountain

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Aircraft Carrier, The 
Beehives, The 
Belly of the Beast 
Dark Heart, The 
Donkey Show Wall, The 
Dragon's Den 
First Love 
Five Bimbos, The 
Home of the Stars 
Maiden Gully 
Meddle Shop 
Moonshine Roof 
North Dragon's Den 
Tabloid Pass 
Warm Up Roof 
Water Dog Wall 

East Mountain Rock Climbing 

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Location: 31.9171, -106.0391 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,739
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 5, 2006

89° | 67°

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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Boulderers silhouetted on “Slashface.”

  • East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    Once, one of the places to be and it still is, just a bit harder to get there with the restrictions.
    Many great areas await those that get on guided tours to East Mountain.
    • The Dragons Den has some of the best V5's in the park and one of the best V10's in the world.
    • Some of the hardest moves are found in the area of The Warm-up Roof, on Slashface and Li.
    • Moonshine Roof offers one of the best V4's anywhere
    • The Dark Heart provids shelter from wind, rain or sun.
    • The Aircraft Carrier is a pretty exposed and somewhat intimidating location to climb at.
    • Maiden Gully is a long walk, but worth it as there are many problems at different levels and you can escape the sun and wind among the boulder choked gulley.
    • Home of the Stars has one of the best V6's around.

    There are many other areas that are worth visiting as well, with many classic problems that you will want to do.

    Getting There 

    Guided tour access only.

    Your tour will start at either pond parking or camground overflow depending on where you are headed and where your tour intends on finishing.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 8.1 miles from here

    100 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',45],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in East Mountain

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Mountain:
    The Maiden   V0 4     Boulder, 35'   Maiden Gully
    Backdoor Man   V2 5+ PG13     Boulder, 25'   The Dark Heart
    The Guillotine   V2 5+     Boulder   Warm Up Roof
    The Ostracizer   V3 6A     Boulder   Dragon's Den
    El Burro   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   The Donkey Show Wall
    Rembrandt Pussyhorse   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   Dragon's Den
    Moonshine Roof (center)   V4 6B     Boulder, 25'   Moonshine Roof
    Warm Up Roof   V4 6B     Boulder   Warm Up Roof
    The Fin   V4 6B     Boulder   The Aircraft Carrier
    Left Donkey Show   V5 6C     Boulder, 14'   The Donkey Show Wall
    Hobbit in a Blender   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Dragon's Den
    Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Dragon's Den
    Meddle Detector   V6 7A     Boulder, 30'   Home of the Stars
    Tall Cool Red One   V6 7A     Boulder, 21'   The Dark Heart
    Uncut Yogi   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   The Beehives
    Hector in a Blender   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Dragon's Den
    Dry Dock   V7 7A+     Boulder   Dragon's Den
    Snakecharmer   V7 7A+     Boulder, 20'   North Dragon's Den
    Sex After Death   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Tabloid Pass
    Something Different   V8 7B     Boulder, 12'   The Dark Heart
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Mountain

    Featured Route For East Mountain
    Rock Climbing Photo: TCamillieri flashing Ultra Mega.  Photo:  Thomas B...

    Ultramega V8 7B  Texas : Hueco Tanks : ... : The Dark Heart
    This problem beings low (no lower) on the "holster" pocket and another jug. Start crossed and move through the jugs until you get to an undercling. Reach out left to an ok pocket and bicycle. THe crux is the next two moves establishing on the next thin finger lock pocket and then reaching up to a crimp work your feet to a good foot out left and reach a juggy pocket. Cross left hand to the next crimp then cross back underneath your left hand to an undercling jug. Slap up to the lip and bump ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

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