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West Lark T 

East Lark 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Chuck + Ellen Wilts, G Harr and B Tory 1950
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: Tradiban on Jul 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Rob on p2


Climb right-facing corners, find the easiest path.


Start right of Hard Lark and left of West Lark. Take a left leaning ramp to right facing corners.



Photos of East Lark Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The short, traversing P3. Rob in good form.
The short, traversing P3. Rob in good form.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Lark start
BETA PHOTO: East Lark start

Comments on East Lark Add Comment
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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Sep 6, 2014

Run the traditional first and second pitches together. On P3 traverse left pretty early to gain the large right-facing dihedral. I think this is the best of the Larks but many hanging belays; not great for beginners.
By matt-jensen
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Jul 18, 2016

I agree to link:
P1 & P2. With a 70m you will get right to the top of the right facing corner with maybe 15ft to spare and good pro/seat for a belay.

P3 Immediately hard left traverse to the dihedral and up. You have the option to either short pitch and hanging belay under the shelf or go over. If you short pitch you can follow the crack up and make a small tree for the next belay. If you don't then you should stop a short distance past the shelf to a semi-painful hanging belay before the crack runs out or you will get stranded on the sandy/pine needle face.

P4 I like to go straight up and over from there, probably 5.6 to summit directly from there up to the big dead tree or follow the giant right facing corner up and right to the gulley passing some old piton. Clip to be a part of history but not for safety. Belay just below the split right and left in the gulley.

P5 I would suggest going left up loose blocky sandy climbing (instead of right) up to the giant dead tree. Sounds worse than it is but it's the least exciting pitch by far. It's hard to communicate to your partner from here so I'd work some rope tug method out in advance to signal I'm off/ your on belay. (Even that has failed for me in the past here)
By matt-jensen
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Jul 18, 2016

If you don't have a 70m the first pitch stops about 100ft up on the left, a nice shelf with a triangular block/flake.

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