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The Indian Buttress Formation
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East Indian Buttress T 
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East Indian Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Howard Hammerland, Hunter Hernandez, C. Norwood!!
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on May 24, 2015

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Howard entering the perfect hand crack Pitch 1, Ea...

Description 

This is the striking obvious corner system, which runs up the entirety of the east buttress on The Indian Buttress Formation.
Pitch 1, starts out in a perfect left facing corner with a super clean hand crack for 80' to top of tower, belay in notch.
Pitch 2, follow splitter finger crack for 20' then trend left to large right facing corner follow this to the top.

-Alternate finish Variation B,
Instead of trending left after splitter finger crack on start of P2, continue straight up even larger thin right facing corner 5.10a R, pull roof and belay here for one more short 5.6 pitch to top!

-Alternate finish Variation C, (Most Recomended)
Instead of heading up thin R rated corner described in Var. B, jog right climbing an easy 5.6 finger crack from behind the bushy Pine tree for 25 feet, until it becomes possible to traverse easy broken 4th class ledge all the way right. This will bring you to the amazing splitter headwall double finger crack, up the very exposed arete making up the left side of The Eye of the Indian!! Climb this very intimidating and very expose, proud 5.10b crack, until it becomes possible to trend right above The Eye and belay at the last bolted anchor for the Indian Buttress route. Finish via last pitch of IB!

-Alternate finish Variation D,
Make the same fourth class traverse right as described in variation finish C, instead of charging up brilliant 5.10 double finger crack, continue traversing right for another 25 feet. It will then become possible to make a fun 5.6 step around move bringing you to a beautiful ledge looking up at the Eye of the Indian! (Belay Here)
From the beautiful bivi ledge climb wild splitter overlaps off the right side of ledge, trending up and left into the Eye of the Indian 5.10a!
Once you have arrived in The Eye climb excellent 5.7 right facing corner out right side of Eye and finish the same as variation C.

Location 

Start Left side of toe of East Buttress.

Protection 

Standard Trad rack!!!


Photos of East Indian Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting pitted on the first pitch!!!
Getting pitted on the first pitch!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter first pitch!!!
Splitter first pitch!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the amazing start to pitch two!!
Looking down on the amazing start to pitch two!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect splitter fingers to hands on pitch one!!!
Perfect splitter fingers to hands on pitch one!!!

Comments on East Indian Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 8, 2016

Joshua what makes this a Grade III?
By Joshua Reinig
Aug 9, 2016

Chris,
Def. more of a grade II+ !!!
By x15x15
Aug 15, 2016

if you leave the rig at Nomads, crawl up to Humber Park, then continue to crawl up the approach trail, crawl up the talus fields, tie one arm behind your back, put roller skates on one foot, use no chalk, this is a GRADE V day!!!

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