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East Huey Spire

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East Huey Spire Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: themostdirect on Oct 18, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: East Huey Spire dominates the left side of this ph...


A proud and varied tower that dominates from Fairy Meadows base camps. East Huey is the terminal peak of the ridge running directly from Phenocryst Spire (left of the LFT). Being so close to camp it is convenient that East Huey actually has a little something for everybody.

While hard women free "Riders on the Storm" (5.12+) the rest of us can crag out on a number of wonderful crack lines at its base, less than 20 minutes from the Meadows. Apparently Bill Buckingham and company found a wandering 4th class route to the summit that follows mossy terrace ledges around the south/east face, which they used to access the ridge and snag it's FAs. Another very moderate climb lies just around the back side of the spire and takes the west ridge to the summit.

Getting There 

Get to Fairy Meadows. Look towards the LFT, that closest mass of rock in that direction is East Huey Spire.

Climbing Season

For the Canada area.

Weather station 38.6 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Huey Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Huey Spire:
West Ridge    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Huey Spire

Featured Route For East Huey Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: West Ridge of East Huey Spire.  The route follows ...

West Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : East Huey Spire
After locating the gully on the southwestern side of East Huey, start making your way up it or the moss slabs to it's left. Your goal is the eventual arrival at the notch between East and Middle Huey Spires. It may be wise to rope up for sections of this approach if the moss is wet or the gully is icy. To gain the actual start we had a few very short technical roped pitches.P1) The beginning of the climb is easily identified as a wide easy corner at the notch. Move up this corner and continu...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of East Huey Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: East Huey Spire as seen from up Phenocryst Valley,...
East Huey Spire as seen from up Phenocryst Valley,...

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