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East Hellgate

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Clamshell, The 
Goat Gully Wall 
Goatland Wall 
Melting Mud Wall, The 
Melting Mud West 

East Hellgate Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 8,530'
Location: 40.59012, -111.64445 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,790
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Dec 25, 2009
Forecast:
Today

46° | 32°
Wednesday

50° | 35°
Thursday

48° | 33°
Friday

48° | 35°
Saturday

53° | 32°
Sunday

45° | 32°
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Snowbird, from the Clamshell, or rather the Meltin...

  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Quite possibly THE destination in Little Cottonwood for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate will deliver.

    Holding more pockets than a Levi's factory, East Hell Gate is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.

    An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote or Hellish Inferno only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.

    So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two, and a harness and give these routes a spin.

    Getting There 

    Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.9 miles from here

    48 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',8],['5.10',26],['5.11',11],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in East Hellgate

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Hellgate:
    Los Crudos   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Wisky Bench   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90110'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Rat Bastards   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 75'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Minor Threat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Highway to Hell   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Goatland Wall
    Pocket City   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Goat Gully Wall
    Antidote   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Devil's Advocate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'   Melting Mud West
    Dayglow Abortions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Repeat and Offend   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Hot Pockets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Goatland Wall
    Fire Water   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Goatland Wall
    Melting Into Madness   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Martinez Mind Melter   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Melting Mud Wall
    The Bird Is the Word   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Winking Owl   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Goatland Wall
    Cotton Mouth King   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Hellish Inferno   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Goat Gully Wall
    Brain Doner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Public Nuisance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Melting Mud Wall
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Hellgate

    Featured Route For East Hellgate
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fett sending Turbo Sphincter.

    Turbo Sphincter 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Goatland Wall

    Comments on East Hellgate Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Shumaker
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jun 2, 2014
    As you hike into the area I think it goes melting mud, melting mud west, goat gully, goatland wall and then the clamshell at the end.

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