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East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Excalibur S 
Monkey Bar S 
See Saw S 
Untitled S 

East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.98924, -119.90783 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,022
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
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Description 

The most expedient approach to the main climbing area trail is through the East Gully. As you near the bottom there is one untitled route in this gully on the right side--a burly start (which can be bypassed on higher ground) followed by a juggy, colorful wall with open cold shuts at the top.

Playground Rock is a buttress with a 5.7 and a 5.9 (L to R) starting vertical (but moderate) and continuing up a low angle wall. If you happen to be looking for the easiest route around here, try School Rock, the area to the climber's Right where there is a low angle juggy 5.5.

The Prize Cliff is an impressive wall, slightly overhanging with a tree at its corner and features a classic 11b called "Excalibur."

Getting There 

Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (less than 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. Near the base you will find a juggy untitled route on the right (with a difficult start). Once at the base of the gully you will meet the main climbing area trail.

The routes on Playground Rock begin at the end of the buttress on your right and continue to the climber's Left.

From Playground Rock, continue climber's Left to the Prize Cliff (Excalibur 5.11b), a slightly overhanging, black and gold wall with a tree growing against the arete.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff:
See Saw   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Monkey Bar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff

Featured Route For East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff

Untitled 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Nevada : Lake Tahoe : ... : East Gully, Playground Rock...
Hard to resist this one. Colorful, slightly overhanging rock with abundant features. It's as fun as it looks! You can get all kinds of great moves in here--undercling, knuckle lock, deadpoint, lie back, sidepull, heel hook, cross-over, knee bar, even a hand jam--whatever feels right. And most of this route is really 5.10-, quite similar to Stretch Rack 10b at the Torture Chamber.However, many unassuming climbers have put on their harness, tied in, and chalked up just to be su...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

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