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East Gate Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Cabeza de Pollo T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
Clay, Like Dirt S 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Narrow Horizons T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Purple Horizons T 
Ripping Wall, The T 
Sidekick T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Speed Of Life T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

East Gate Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57387, -111.75163 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,536
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

44°
Sunday

64° | 37°
Monday

50° | 32°
Tuesday

43° | 34°
Wednesday

43° | 28°
Thursday

41° | 30°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.

Getting There 

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',9],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Gate Buttress:
Sidekick   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Clay, Like Dirt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Only Human Var.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
El Chollo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Ripping Wall   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
El Segundo   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gran Hermano   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Christopher of the Everglades   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Ankle Biters   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Purple Horizons   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Narrow Horizons   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Bloodline   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Gate Buttress

Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: bloodline

Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me. At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the nin...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of East Gate Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: db on pitch 3 of Ripping Wall, belayed by Austin B...
db on pitch 3 of Ripping Wall, belayed by Austin B...
Rock Climbing Photo: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
Rock Climbing Photo: newish east gate routes
BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
Rock Climbing Photo: parking, approach, and location of crag
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag

Comments on East Gate Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!
By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 1, 2015
The approach information on Mountain Project neglects to mention that the Upper East Gate routes (This Aint No Disco, To Air is Human, Only Human Variation, Under Fire, Trivial Pursuit, The Flakes, and Wild Things) have a ledge out left that you have to traverse. The traverse starts after a big ramp that starts near Graying at the Routes.

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