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East Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 2,011
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 29, 2006

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David leading up the hand crack on S.A.B.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Obvious hand crack/flake with flared offwidth at top.There are two finishes on this short high quality climb. 1. at top of hand crack continue the last 10 feet up off width chimney (grind your way up). 2. Stand up and lie back the upper edge of the chimney(much easier)This is a good practise climb to get ready for other Woodson classics.

Protection 

Use cams .75-2 the crack takes good pro and there are lots of good feet to the left of the crack as well as in the crack.Anchor by using red and yellow aliens or small cams in horizontal crack at ledge above climb.


Photos of East Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand crack to off width, S.A.B.
Hand crack to off width, S.A.B.

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 22, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb.
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Apr 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I rated this classic layback/highball 5.9 all the years I was on Woodson. See the barrel chested, Professor Keith Brueckner depicted on the cover of the 1987 Woodson guide on the same problem at: illusiondweller.blogspot.com/2...
By Josh Clift
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 22, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'd also give this a 5.9 because of how awkward the jams are, and how unstable it feels going from the hand into the offwidth. Fun climb. I didn't use gear, but it is definitely a no fall zone where it gets tricky, so if you're in doubt use the gear. Hurt pride is way easier to recover from than a wrecked ankle.