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East Face/Hand 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Jan 15, 2002

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One of the high-quality placements between the lar...

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  • Description 

    Start at the low point of the rock on the East face. The start is on the Mallory cave trail just before it winds through a split rock and switchbacks onto the Mallory cave scramble section.

    Protection is available when you need it. We did this with a 60m rope in three pitches.

    P1- Head up picking your way on easy flaky rock. We belayed at the second ledge system after running up the rope.

    P2- From here a short 5.3 (unprotected headwall) deposits you on a large ledge system in front of a chimney. Traverse right (north) to the edge. Peer down into the gully in front of the cave and crank up the protected crux of the climb. Follow a ramp system left to the chimney and belay before crossing.

    P3- Cross the chimney and head up easy ground to the summit.

    Descent: Scramble north to hiking territory and rappel East from a tree to the front of the cave or hike West through Fatman's Frenzy and then North and East to regain the cave trail. If you rappel, be aware that people might be visiting the cave below you. It is bad form to drop rocks, climbing equipment and even climbers on hikers....


    Standard Flatiron rack.

    Photos of East Face/Hand Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fat man's frenzy.
    Fat man's frenzy.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the steeper headwall on P2.
    Climbing the steeper headwall on P2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the chimney/gash on P3.
    Crossing the chimney/gash on P3.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier freezing his ass off on the  East ...
    Warren Teissier freezing his ass off on the East ...

    Comments on East Face/Hand Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Warren Teissier
    Jan 22, 2002

    Yep, when we did this climb (Jan. 15th) the thermometer in the car as I parked at NCAR read 17 degrees.... Thus the lack of a smile in the picture below. Fun route though....
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 18, 2003

    According to the folks at Boulder Mt Parks, it's open again (Mallory Cave is not). Also, it is possible to do 2x60m pitches. From the big tree nearly abutting the middle of the East face, you can wander essentially straight up to a huge ledge (big enough for a party) with a crack/dihedral for a #4 & #1 Camalot. From here, we went up and found a near vertical headwall protected by a couple nuts and headed for a section where the face falls away. We crossed up onto the final slabs here (not much pro) and topped out. We used a #3 Camalot for the summit anchor. From here, an extra bonus is finishing out on Sharks Fin on upper South Side, 5.6. Then you downclimb to the Finger and Sharks Fin notch & scramble West. 2 summits, no rappels.
    By Paul Weiss
    Jun 27, 2003

    Found the rock to be dirty with lichen and loose in places. Like most Flatiron climbs the belay anchors are wimpy, but the climbing is straightforward. The route swings left and right, use long slings.
    By shad O'Neel
    Oct 26, 2003

    Chasing obscurity again, or just avoiding the crowds. A decent route to take someone who is just learning up. I thought the first pitch was a bit run out, but that may be my tendency today to skip mental protection. Fun micro-headwall.
    By kyle lefkoff
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    Climbed this on 10.25 with Roy. We found it well-protected and accessible for its grade, with good quality rock.

    The first pitch was 50m to the belay; the second and third were both 30m pitches.

    The descent crawl through the Fatman's Frenzy is a classic.
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Nov 9, 2013
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    Well-protected? Haha!
    When in doubt, just keep climbing!

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