|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Feb 22, 2002|
|Comments on East Face/Finger Flatiron||Add Comment|
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By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 22, 2002
|We did this a while ago, and had difficulty figuring out where to start using the rossiter guide. So, we just started from the bottom just as you go up the rocky path to the cave. There were a few difficult, or maybe just confusing, moves on poor rock, I ran it out a ways, and belayed behind a big bush. That said, it would appear that there are many different ways you could start the climb.However, IMO, the last pitch was excellent, easy slab climbing in a beautiful setting... My partner and I had just been laid off a couple days prior to the climb, and we choose it so that we could give the (big) finger to our ex-employer...:)|
By John M Brooks
From: Niwot, CO
Oct 24, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
|Nice trail to base & along descent. Enjoyable route and belay areas. Great summit top. Total rope length ~140m bottom to top.|
By Michael R
From: Vail Valley, CO
Nov 12, 2009
|The first pitch had a lot of loose rocks and pine cones/sticks. Seeing as the route is directly above a hiking trail to Mallory Cave, you have to climb carefully and watch the rope drag. Call out all debris you knock loose as the unsuspecting day hikers are probably not going to expect it (especially true for the follower!). When I was belaying my partner rope drag knocked several pine cones on unsuspecting hikers.|
By James Hicks
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 6, 2013
"It's only 5.4 right?"...beware the Roach 5.4, it is not always as it seems ;)
In all seriousness, it's a really fun climb but seemed tougher than most if not all the 5.4s I have climbed in the Flatirons. We did it in 2 long pitches and one short pitch (with a 60m rope). The Finger Flatiron contains quite a bit more loose/crumbly rock than I have seen on most Flatirons as well. You definitely need to exercise care as to not bean the hikers below.
P1 - Another guidebook calls the start 5.6 if you go straight up to the left of the tree and through the notch from the base (which you should, it's a fun move). It protects well with a yellow, boat anchor sized tricam. I think that was the only piece of gear I got in on the first pitch besides slinging a couple trees. Ran straight up the slab to the left of the bushes and trees until almost the end of the rope (50 foot or so run out to where I built the anchor).
P2 - Climb the crappy gully or unprotected face climb for a short distance, really it's just getting you set up at the great belay ledge/cave below the crux moves on the 3rd pitch.
P3 - Climb/stem up the wide crack to the hand crack crux. There are gear options here, but everything is a bit grungy and loose in places. Solid hand jam with decent feet, and after a couple moves you're back on the slab with a pretty poorly protected (2-3 pieces total for the rest of the pitch) rope stretcher to the summit. The decent is a straight forward rappel off the north side, a single 60m rope easily gets you down.