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East Face/Fiddle Head 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 1, 2001

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Coming up the final few feet to the summit.

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  • Description 

    Yet another east face scrambling route....

    Finding the start can be a little difficult. After finding Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon, bushwack up the gully to the east of the rock. The bottom of the rock is broken and overgrown. Begin just to the right of a very obvious and large, left-facing dihedral where the rock becomes more defined and better quality. There will be some trees visible a coupel hundred feet up the face.

    Work your way up to the trees. Find a very obvious widish crack that heads up and right from near the rightmost tree. Foot traverse the crack, and at the end cross the obvious gully. Climb the wall above to another ledge. The summit block will be obvious above and to the right of you. Climb the face about 10-20 feet to the left of the summit block (crux). At the top you will be able to step to the summit.

    It is 2 single rope raps down the west face to the ground.


    Flatiron SR.

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    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jan 24, 2002

    Although Roach calls this a classic, the only good pitch was the last one. The first 400 feet of the route had some questionable rock on it. The last crux pitch has better pro than it seems from below. To spice it up a little bit, climb the last pitch right on the ridge line.
    By Mic Fairchild
    From: Boulder
    Oct 23, 2011
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    This is a fun and varied romp to a scenic summit. The first pitch may be tame, but the wide crack is pretty cool, and the two pitches above have some nice sequences. I think Roach has included this one as a classic with good reason. The Pellaea and Onoclea await just West of the descent rapp.
    By Anton Krupicka
    Dec 3, 2014

    It's possible to downclimb the west face of this in lieu of the rappels, but it's a little weird because doing so makes the downclimb the definite crux of the scramble. Pretty vertical rock on the west face, but there are solid holds the whole way, felt about 5.4-5.6ish to me? Sets you up nicely for a scramble of Onoclea, too. Plus, then you don't have to trust that second threaded rap anchor, which seems a little specious to me (the tat is wrapped around an approximately arm-thick rib of rock).
    By Page Weil
    Aug 29, 2015
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    You can reach the ground from the summit with a single 70m rope doubled over.

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