|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Sep 3, 2001|
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|Comments on East Face/Arrowhead||Add Comment|
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By David Neckels
Apr 2, 2002
|The continuation from the col on to McHenry's was one of my favorite scrambles last year. Lots of fun class 4 climbing. The route looks pretty scarey from the col, but things open up and the route is pretty obvious up to the summit. A definite must for any class 4 scrambler.|
By Dave Bn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 21, 2015
We must have been off route; didn't encounter anything close to 5.4 climbing except at the very bottom of the buttress. We were just right of the green line in the new Fixed Pin Rossiter guide for the park (page 423).
From the bottom of the buttress, we took what looked to be the most logical line. First pitch was 5.6 slab in a corner below an overlap/roof with less than stellar gear in a shallow flaring and mossy crack. Second pitch ended up to be a 5.8 flake system, which was actually really fun. Good climbing and what would be awesome pro if you had doubles in the blue/purple Mastercam range - which I didn't.
Second pitch ended at the heavily treed ledge, and options for continuing upward looked run out, harder than 5.8 or a vegetated mess or scrambling. We bailed from that ledge with four raps from trees (70 m rope).
Ultimately, there may be a 5.4 line somewhere up to Ledge One, especially if you're willing to get exceedingly intimate with trees, but it's likely a pretty contrived line. I also think that you follow the last pitch of Ripsaw Ridge from Ledge One which is 5.6, so the 5.4 rating should be taken with a grain of salt, and this probably shouldn't be considered the beginner alpine route the 5.4 rating might otherwise suggest.
I took 6 cams (yellow/orange Mastercam, C4 0.5-2) and a set of nuts; never placed anything larger than 0.75.