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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Warren Harding, Ray Alcott, Norah Straley
Season: Summer, early fall
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Scott O on Sep 19, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Our rope winding up the east face. Leader is on th...

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Description 

From the sandy bench at the start of the technical climbing, meander up the sea of features on this broad face up toward a clearly visible tree in a notch on the ridge line. This can be done in one pitch with a 70m rope, but bring plenty of slings as the route wanders. There is a nice belay ledge halfway up the face if needed. This face is about 5.6 but made more challenging by the abundance of loose grit and rotten rock on the route. Decent protection is available.

From the notch, climb a pitch to your left up a beautiful left-leaning crack to the summit. You may also be able to skirt left around this, but I didn't try.

Location 

From Young Lake, scramble up the talus slope, skirting the edge of the rock buttress to your right. It will eventually turn into a series of slabby boulder problems until you get to the obvious summit formation and start of the technical climbing. This route meanders up a sea of features aiming toward a tree in a notch which should be visible from the start. There is a large sandy bench at the start.

Protection 

Set of nuts, doubles to 1", a 2" and a 3" piece are what we used without issue. Plenty of slings as the route wanders. There is an old fixed piton halfway up the face, otherwise no bolts or fixed pins.


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