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Jaberwocky Tower
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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Beckstead and Paul Myhre (1970)
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: RodrigoB on May 21, 2016

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The flaring chimney (P2) of Jaberwocky Tower. It ...

Description 

From the notch you'll see a small ledge that cuts across the (South)East Face.

P1 (70 ft/20m): Starting at the notch climb a short ramp (~15'/5m) before heading up a short dihedral to the ledge. Traverse across the narrow, exposed ledge and belay below the obvious flaring chimney (low 5th).
P2 (~30'/10m): Climbing the flaring chimney to the summit where there is a small tree and some gear options.
Two pitches are recommended despite the length due to the wandering nature of the first pitch.

A single double rope rappel easily reaches the ground. An intermediate rappel could be set up. Be careful of the rope eating snag when you pull the rope.

The route does not see a lot of traffic and has a lot of lichen and is very slippery when wet. It started snowing just before we began climbing and by the end it was to slippery to do much of anything.

Protection 

Small rack to 3". No small gear is needed.


Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jaberwocky Tower, including the East face, as seen...
BETA PHOTO: Jaberwocky Tower, including the East face, as seen...
Rock Climbing Photo: The ledge traverse to the base of P2 with Dragonta...
The ledge traverse to the base of P2 with Dragonta...

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