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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Richard Berge, Wesley Grand
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Aaron Nash on Jul 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: From SuperTopo with some additions

Description 

P1: Start by climbing up to a handrail and traversing right towards the large hanging "split block" and nasty looking chimney. [FYI: This handrail may be at snow level depending on the time of year] Once you reach the block, clip the pin and do a slightly awkward step across move onto the block. From here either climb straight up the awesome finger crack right in front of you to a nice ledge (5.8), or keep traversing right until you reach easy terrain that gets you up to the next ledge (5.4). Set your anchor in the crack on the ledge right above the finger crack and belay here.

P2: Climb up the easy and fun crack right in front of you to the next ledge. From here, traverse left a little and look for the rightward trending dyke. Climb up the dyke. There is no pro here for about 25-30 feet, but the climbing is easy on very solid rock (5.6R). Once above the face climbing section, ramble up easy ledges, trending left. Your goal for the next belay is the large horn with some slings on it.

P3: Trend right and upwards on easy ledges towards a short chimney. Climb the chimney to a small ledge, then continue up a somewhat dirty corner until you reach a large ledge. The final leftward facing corner should be obvious from this ledge. Belay here. 5.6

P4: Take the obvious corner up until your just below the summit. Fun laid back climbing. Belay from the notch between the bunny ears.

P4.5: From here, getting to the summit is unprotectable. We climbed up to the top one by one and then downclimbed while roped up.

DESCENT:
From the bunny ears notch, downclimb 15 feet to the next ledge. There are rap slings around a large horn here. A double rope rap from here will take you down to the large slung horn you belayed off at the top of P2. A double rope rap from this will put you back at the base.

Location 

Southmost of the wine spires. See Chablis spire page on how to get to the east face.

Protection 

Light rack to 3 should be more than adequate.
Bring two 60m ropes for the rappels.


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