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Piton Tower
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East Face T 
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East Face 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete Schoening, Joe Hieb, Wes Grande, Ralph Widrig 1948. FFA: Eric Bjornstad, Dan Davis, 1961
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: geoff georges on May 15, 2014

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climbing through the double cracks on Piton Tower

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


1st ascent of the tower in 1948 was this route.
The free ascent in 1961 was considered 5.8 while placing pitons. There was an assortment of 1/4" bolts and fixed pins. Some relics remain, but I would not trust them much. The start is the physical crux, there are pro placements up there, stemming and chimney technique get you up it. There is a chock stone mid way up that made me nervous, seems to be wedged in.


Starts at the notch between the tower and the main wall.


Cams and nuts to 3" . An old anchor with a bright SS bolt added in 2008 for the rap off.

Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux start.
the crux start.
Rock Climbing Photo: fun stemming up high on the East Face of Piton Tow...
fun stemming up high on the East Face of Piton Tow...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2/3 way up.
2/3 way up.

Comments on East Face Add Comment
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By max huecksteadt
From: Hanoi Vietnam
Sep 11, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cool route if you're in the area with a rack, and want to top something out! The top part of the double cracks seems to be a huge loose block but it felt solid enough, a little spooky so be aware. You can get great pro instead of the manky bolt up higher although the top part has some kitty litter. There appeared to be three generations of bolts on top but there's a bomber rap station, maybe 80' to the ground.

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