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Goofy Spire
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East Face T 
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East Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Aug 18, 2013

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East Face.

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  • Description 

    Climb a sort of chimney, and continue up the prominent, left-facing dihedral on the narrow east face. I led Jay Mather up this in 1972. It seemed like 5.7 at the time, but that was an old-school rating. I have never heard of anyone climbing this, before or since. Until now, I'm not aware of any publication of this route's existence. I thought it was a good climb.

    Location 

    This is on the narrow east face of Goofy Spire.

    Protection 

    SR, maybe up through 4 inches.


    Comments on East Face Add Comment
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    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 29, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The approach to Goofy Spire is short and a bit ugly, but the crack in the right-side corner of the dihedral (just left of center in the picture) climbs quite nicely up to the little oval-shaped roof. A somewhat awkward move gets you around the right side of the roof, which may be the crux.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 1, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    FWIW, I recommend belaying a pitch of climbing up to the base of this route. The approach bit is slippery and exposed. A fall here would suck.

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