REI Community
Mikey's Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annie's Knotty Fingers T 
Care Giver, The T 
Distriminator, The T 
East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C0 PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C0 PG13 [details]
FA: Jason Seaver, Matt Cohen, 5-22-10
New Route: Yes
Season: year round
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: jason seaver on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matt at the base of the dual flares, 5-22-10.


Start in the chubby flared crack at the wall's base and climb it to a ledge. This ledge gives the pitch its PG-13 rating, as the dual flares above it have devious climbing and protection. I had to hang here on my onsight effort in order to suss it out. Hence the current C0 rating. Conquer the flares, and the jam/layback crack above, and then jog left under an overlap. Climb the burly splitter out the overlap and up the short headwall above to arrive at a slab in an alcove. There's a crack in a corner, shooting out the roof above, which is the obvious finish to this pitch. BUT, in my cowardice, and doubt about anchors above, I built an anchor in the roof crack and traversed way off right to belay. I believe a bolt anchor just above the roof crack (and a no-hang free ascent) would make this pitch complete. As is, scramble off right and back down to the base.


Around the corner, to the East, from the other pitches on this crag is the steep brown and yellow East wall with a crack system meandering up its center.


Standard full rack.

It needs a bolt anchor at its top.

Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the headwall splitter, 5-22-10.
Matt on the headwall splitter, 5-22-10.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Face.
BETA PHOTO: East Face.

Comments on East Face Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About