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BETA PHOTO: Sketch of the East Face Route. The first rap anch...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route climbs directly to the morning sun side of the notch, up the central, hopefully easiest, crack system.
Above the notch, a 5.9 hand crack leads up to the summit plateau. Walk over to the summit tower and climb an easy crack tot he top.
The first ascent party did four pitches to the notch; 5.10 loose, 5.10 steep hand/fist crux, 5.9+, offwidth, and 5.9 hands. Lots of loose stuff.
The northeast ridge of Candlestick has a notch formed by a rough spire. The East Face route climbs to this notch from the southeast side. We approached the saddle from the north and traversed under some shale cliffs until it was easier to get up to the start.
I'd take double cams from fingers to fist, and a #5. The third pitch squeeze might take a #6 too.
Rusty Kirkpatrick and I installed a rappel route down the East Face in 1987. Our goal was to find a route that avoided all the loose ledges on the route up. My old, stretched, double 9mm X 50m ropes didn't really make it to the last ledge on a blank slab. In the attached sketch, the final two bolt anchor I drilled is out left and up from the fist belay. I did not mark it because of uncertainty about where it is.