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Routes in Candlestick Tower
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East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Southwest Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Kent Lugbill, Glenn Randall, October, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 3,809 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Apr 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route climbs directly to the morning sun side of the notch, up the central, hopefully easiest, crack system.
Above the notch, a 5.9 hand crack leads up to the summit plateau. Walk over to the summit tower and climb an easy crack tot he top.
The first ascent party did four pitches to the notch; 5.10 loose, 5.10 steep hand/fist crux, 5.9+, offwidth, and 5.9 hands. Lots of loose stuff.
Above the notch, a 5.9 hand crack leads up to the summit plateau. Walk over to the summit tower and climb an easy crack tot he top.
The first ascent party did four pitches to the notch; 5.10 loose, 5.10 steep hand/fist crux, 5.9+, offwidth, and 5.9 hands. Lots of loose stuff.
Location
The northeast ridge of Candlestick has a notch formed by a rough spire. The East Face route climbs to this notch from the southeast side. We approached the saddle from the north and traversed under some shale cliffs until it was easier to get up to the start.
Protection
I'd take double cams from fingers to fist, and a #5. The third pitch squeeze might take a #6 too.
Rusty Kirkpatrick and I installed a rappel route down the East Face in 1987. Our goal was to find a route that avoided all the loose ledges on the route up. My old, stretched, double 9mm X 50m ropes didn't really make it to the last ledge on a blank slab. In the attached sketch, the final two bolt anchor I drilled is out left and up from the fist belay. I did not mark it because of uncertainty about where it is.
Rusty Kirkpatrick and I installed a rappel route down the East Face in 1987. Our goal was to find a route that avoided all the loose ledges on the route up. My old, stretched, double 9mm X 50m ropes didn't really make it to the last ledge on a blank slab. In the attached sketch, the final two bolt anchor I drilled is out left and up from the fist belay. I did not mark it because of uncertainty about where it is.
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