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The Shark's Fin
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East Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,480
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Alabama Hills: Sharks Fin: East Face


A fun, easy chimney sequence gets things started. The crux face moves are located mid-route. Nice steep rock leads to the anchors.

Better rock quality and better movement than the more-famous arete.


Climbs the center of the East face.


6 lead bolts (with 2 additional off-route bolts to the right--one of which is a classic 1/4" button-head).

The top anchor consists of 2 open shuts with mussey hooks attached (an unusual pairing).

Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the chimney portion.
Exiting the chimney portion.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy Ness on East Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Amy Ness on East Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for the East Face of the Shark's Fin.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for the East Face of the Shark's Fin.

Comments on East Face Add Comment
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By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Dec 22, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Try the route without doing the chimney moves. Checks in at "tough" 5.9. :)
By Russ Walling
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Might be the best the Fin has to offer. Good climbing for the grade. We went slightly right at the top past the 1/4" spinner.
By LifeIsGood
From: Reno, NV
May 15, 2010

Again, we pulled the sissy stick out and stuck the first bolt with it. The stemming up the chimney was interesting.... :-)
By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I'm confused! I just checked my guide book and in the text it rates this climb at 5.6, this page says the traditional rating is 5.7, but if you look at the topo in the guidebook (right above the text) it clearly labels the route .8? It felt kinda stiff for a .7 to me, so I'm going with the rating on the topo.

One of the hangers has been removed from the bolt higher up, but there is a slightly off route bolt you can clip in its place. Just remember to bring one longer draw or sling.
By Ben Lin
From: Anaheim, CA
Mar 28, 2016

Bolt 5 is missing and only the threaded stud remains. Used a long runner to clip on a bolt on the far right.
By Richard O'Neal
From: Lancaster, Ca
Jun 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Maybe I was having a bad day, but I cant fathom how that was a 5.7. More of a 5.9 to me. Beware the top, there was a HUMONGOUS flying red ant hive at the top! Got stung a few times, had to bail fast.
By Bailey Smith
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Little tough but I'm not sure I stayed on route. Felt like more secure rock than the arete route.

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