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East Face 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

Type:  Trad, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Mike McMahon on Sep 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Looking down from the summit.

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  • Location 

    From the Royal Arch trail, climb over Hammerhead, or from Sentinel Pass, hike west past Hammerhead. Hike roughly 100 yards uphill from here and look for a grungy formation in the woods.


    Initially, this climb appears marginal... at best. The first few feet of the formation are heavily covered in lichen, moss and pine-needles. However, this formation is actually quite a bit longer than it initially appears, and the upper climbing is considerably better. I wouldn't go out of my way for this one, but it certainly provides a different route to Green Mountain Pinnacle or Challenger.

    I found the best climbing on the right (north) side of the formation. The exposure here (to the north) is actually quite a bit greater than one would expect, as the ground drops off steeply below. The face here is full of several horizontal cracks, reminiscent of the fifth(?) pitch of the First.

    Directly below the summit is a final headwall. Staying directly on the northern crest of the formation might become problematic at 5.0 here, so I traversed a few feet left. Roach suggests the headwall is simplest and only 4th class in the center. Climb west for 25 feet or so to the surprisingly small summit.

    Note: Clearly, this face sees little activity as many holds are loose and still lichen covered. I personally broke a few flakes.

    Descent: Scramble 20 feet southwest to hiking territory, negotiating a pretty gnarly looking fin. A dead tree is leaning up against the back of the formation, but I wouldn't trust it!


    Standard rack.

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    Rock Climbing Photo: The route.  Looks pretty sweet, no?  I stumbled on...
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    Comments on East Face Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 5, 2014
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    This route starts like the picture would imply, but once past the trees is a great route on great rock.
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 20, 2016

    The roofs you need to negotiate are actually really fun with good holds if you search. Grab the holds, paste your feet up high, and commit!

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