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Hitchcock Pinnacle
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East Face T,TR 
North Face T,S,TR 
North Face Direct "Panic Room" T,TR 
Northwest Route T,S 

East Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: all
Page Views: 1,959
Submitted By: BFobar on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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This route is on the east face of hitchcock pinnacle, starting under the obvious roof. I would say it is worth doing for the roof move. If it was closer to the ground, it would be a fun V0/1 bouldering problem. There is one bolt above the roof and a set of chains. This route is easily top roped after climbing the standard route, but rope drag is bad when lowering off. I would recommend topping out and rapping to save your sheath.

I heard a rumor that some holds on this route was chipped out by rock hammers in the early '70s.


East face hitchcock pinnacle, its a no brainer.


1 bolt up high. Cracks under the roof will probably take anything fat finger sized. Falling on lead over the roof before clipping the bolt would probably be bad news.

Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Goofing off on the roof.
Goofing off on the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: New year's eve climbing.
New year's eve climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: leg barring roof on east face
leg barring roof on east face
Rock Climbing Photo: Night climbing on Hitchcock Pinnacle's East Face
Night climbing on Hitchcock Pinnacle's East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitchcock Pinnacle
Hitchcock Pinnacle
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve's tat of Steve climbing the 10 on Hitchcock
Steve's tat of Steve climbing the 10 on Hitchcock

Comments on East Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 16, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This climb isn't worth leading, in my opinion; it's not particularly fun. If you really want to do it, do it on TR after leading one of the other routes. By the way, if you peel off just after pulling the roof, and just before clipping the bolt, it would be an ugly fall.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 28, 2008

The bolt seems to be poorly located. I agree, leading this route is bold the way it was set up. Fun TR.
By SThal
From: Logan, UT
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do not lead this route. Do not waste time climbing it unless you want cool pictures of yourself pulling an overhang.
By Zach Gooding
From: Tucson AZ
Mar 16, 2012

Nonsense, this route is a fine lead. The roof protects with a small nut below the lip, if you take a fall, its 4 feet, and over hung enough that you avoid whipping the wall. IF you peel off after pulling the roof, you didn't deserve to clip the bolt anyway, the feet and hands are all bomber.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 12, 2012

What's all this about falling above the roof = plunge into certain death? Bah.. I'm a big chicken and fwiw I slipped off above the roof trying to traverse over to clip the oddly-placed bolt above the lip and had an all-air, very clean fall onto a #3 BD at the roof. I ended up no where near the ground. This was all a while back, we stopped in to play on the Pinnacle after a day of climbing. I thought this was the funnest way up the Pinnacle. It is a bit pumpy, particularly after a day of sport wanking, but a short/fun climb.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 18, 2012

You can place two small C3's after pulling the roof and before the bolt. I placed them from a funky double knee bar, which made the route for me. Lots of fun climbing for a short route!
By Owen Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 7, 2015

Definitely worth climbing on TR, mostly for the fun heel hook! I'd recommend rapping down the north face because rope drag is bad.

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