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Fourth Flatiron
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Arc de Triumph S 
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 
East Face, North Side T 
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Lower South-East Gully T 
No Balls At All 

East Face, South Side 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: Kaner on May 24, 2008

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Robby coming up thru the spiral cave staircase.

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Description 

Hike up Royal Arch trail to base of 4th Flatiron that rests trailside. Continue just past base of 4th Flatiron and take 1st uphill you can towards Tangen Creek and into the incredibly fun spiral cave staircase.

Above the staircase, follow a very thin and bushwhacky climber trail 50 feet uphill (west) until you're at the base of section 2 of 4th Flatiron.

On the right half, find an obvious OW 1-2' dirty yet polished crack/ drainage gully down the face of the 4th.

Go up crack and surrounding slab, breaking left onto thinner face moves at pitch 1 crux (more comfortable while on rope, we were simul-climbing). Partner ran out of gear and slung some horns and got a solid belay piece about 80m up on nearly flat 4th class terrain.

The second pitch (we simulclimbed a long 1st pitch) ends at a grassy break with an easy walk off to the right (north).

From here we followed Excellent Crack (5.8) over a small roof to another grassy break and a walk-off. You could work up and left to continue to the 4th's summit.

Protection 

Light Flatiron rack including tri-cams and slings for horns and mini-arches.


Photos of East Face, South Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Robby at the 2nd belay.
Robby at the 2nd belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great views of the Royal Arch.  The turkey vulture...
Great views of the Royal Arch. The turkey vulture...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack. The crux is near top of the visible rock at...
Crack. The crux is near top of the visible rock at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Robby getting into the crack gully on the 4th.
Robby getting into the crack gully on the 4th.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turkey Vulture skimming inches above the face.
Turkey Vulture skimming inches above the face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route, as seen from summit of first section of 4th...
Route, as seen from summit of first section of 4th...

Comments on East Face, South Side Add Comment
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By ErikaB
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2016

I would highly recommend waiting till things are very dry and there is no snow anywhere to be seen before doing this climb. Little known to me at the time, its other name is the watercourse. The weekend before last my partner and I climbed this and it was somewhat terrifying what with the running water in the OW and then as I dubbed it "great couloir of the 4th" with snow that would slip away as you try to go up it in climbing shoes. Dramatic? For sure, but climbing running water with a couple of pieces for 60m is no one's favorite thing....