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Delta Dome
Routes Sorted
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Book of the Dead S 
Crystal Meth S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
East Crack T 
East Face Slab S 
Fin -- S. Face S 
Fin Arete S 
Hobo Sapien S 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Nose, The S 
Over Under Sideways Down S 
Petty Tyrant S 
Southwest Rib T 
Summit access T 
West Face Direct S 

East Face Slab 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Probably Tony Lusk
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: jbak on Sep 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

For better or for worse... a long 5.11+ slab. Sustained.

Delta has several excellent routes in the 5.11+ range. The others are steeper with more positive holds, so I think they are more fun. This one is more slabby, and after 50 feet I'm wishing it's over. But that's just me, you may love it. It is certainly sustained and aesthetic.

Location 

East face of main dome, just left of south nose.

Protection 

Bolts


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By jbak
Sep 13, 2014

This is an awesome route if you like steep, thin, slab climbing. Do it in the shade on a cool day and it might be pretty fun. I'm not sure I really liked it, but I just can't give it less than 3 stars. It's so good-looking.
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Antonio, TX
Sep 15, 2014

Maybe my favorite technical climb on the mountain. Makes you earn every move, and you never feel too confident in the moves ahead.
By jbak
Sep 15, 2014

Well stated Joe. I thought this was the one that Joe S said you really liked.

It is still a touch fuzzy. I broke a couple of holds and had trouble trusting some others. It is an outstanding example of tough steep slab. My problem is: above about 11b I'm not sure slab climbing is actually fun.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a wonderful and sustained route. However, I would not call it slab. It is near vertical delicate face climbing. Despite having no holds break I had trouble trusting a number of the small crystals, which slightly detracted from my experience - with traffic or additional cleaning that might change. Finally the chain could be extended and old webbing removed. This current setup twisted our rope.
By jbak
Jun 8, 2015

Haha...John, don't you know that "delicate" and "slabby" are synonyms ? Apparently you haven't read "Leona's Big Book of Climbing Definitions" ! You would know that anything less steep than Tsunami is a slab. ;) ;)

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