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East Face Right/Fum T 
East Face South Side T 

East Face Right/Fum 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Jul 9, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Fum with the south and north routes marked (left a...

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  • Description 

    This is a scruffy route that starts at the low point on the rock on the East face. The route is run out and licheny although it does have a couple of interesting moves.

    P1 - Climb up and right following a small seam towards a tree. This tree ia not on the face and is hard to use as pro. This section is run out and thin. Once on the right side of the East face climb up and slightly left towards other trees on the face. Belay at either tree when you run the rope out. The lower tree has ants in it...

    P-2 - Climb onto the now treeless east face past a crack offering the last pro for a while. Traverse left under a blank wall and into a chimney via a funky move above a small tree. Run up to the summit.

    Descent - Scramble down to the West via a crack and a dead tree. Somewhat scary.

    Protection 

    Standard Flatiron rack.


    Comments on East Face Right/Fum Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 25, 2003
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

    This route is probably not worth doing unless looking for a saner way to complete the Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum combo. The line we chose is close to this line but is straighter than pictured here. We climbed "directly to a ledge/gully" (described by Rossiter) to the first tree reached in the line of the topo and then moved slightly L to the line of trees and followed these to the top.This line warrants some warning. It is not 5.4, and it is definitely runout. Probably 60-70' (including some 5.6) til you get a good piece of pro, that first tree. Scruff for sure. Rope drag can mount without plenty of long slings. Best pro is probably the trees and these give many options for belays. The CU string tight around one of the upper-most trees has been cleaned. 280' in all. Interesting summit feature with the bigger-than-hottub hueco. The downclimb has one move that someone previously left a leather belt (now cleaned) girth-hitched around the tree to grab. Pro to #2 Camalot.

    BBBomb, yup. Understand why Rossiter didn't give it a star.

    5.6 s or 5.4+++.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 31, 2007
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Yup this is definitely runout esp. in the traverse section in the topo. Nothing but pure foot friction and an unprotected traverse--almost as dangerous for the leader as well as the follower.

    Nice Summit. Better to do the route on the left. This one is very high quality.

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