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East Face North Side/1st Flatiron 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,621
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Aug 23, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: 0 Far Right, 2. 1 Direct E Face, 6R. 1a Butterfly,...

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  • Description 

    This route is the Northernmost route on the East Face of the First. It starts about 100+ feet to the right and up from the start of the Standard East Face route. The route wanders up just right of a large gully (East Face Gully). The rock is good although a bit hard to protect (as all East face routes tend to be).

    To get onto the East face, find a large flake that allows an easy traverse East and proceed straight up the face finding the path of least resistance. There is an old piton in the first pitch. From there, the route wanders left and right a couple of times until it reached the North Arete just North of the start of that route.

    Downclimb to the West and hike South or climb up again some 50 feet North and do the North Arete route, 5.4.


    Standard Flatiron rack.

    Photos of East Face North Side/1st Flatiron Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just after getting on the face from the "hori...
    BETA PHOTO: Just after getting on the face from the "hori...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route I took.
    BETA PHOTO: The route I took.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Variation (red) to East Face North Side.
    BETA PHOTO: Variation (red) to East Face North Side.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is the "horizontal horn" that marks...
    BETA PHOTO: This is the "horizontal horn" that marks...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Water-worn chimney above normal start for EF North...
    BETA PHOTO: Water-worn chimney above normal start for EF North...

    Comments on East Face North Side/1st Flatiron Add Comment
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    By Dan Franke
    Jul 6, 2005

    Climbed this one last weekend, fun route, best if done with a 60m rope.P1- Started at the right side of a big flake, followed seams and grooves for 180 feet. 5 pieces of protection was all I could place, some of which were contrived. Belay set up just left of blobby feature in photo, at adequate flake with baby tree.P2- Headed up open slab past tree seen in photo, continued up until reaching bottom-most of cluster of trees, one of which appears to be dying cedar. 185 feet, 3 pieces of pro all I could place.P3- Resist tempting gully at right, pass main cluster of trees on their left side. No real pro after passing trees, however climbing gradually gets easier as summit attained. Approximately 100 feet.Scramble down boulders 15-20 feet on backside to dirt.Highly recommend 200 foot rope if you want to belay from good trees or cracks.
    By Jason Kaplan
    From: Glenwood ,Co
    Nov 6, 2005

    I climbed this last Friday for the first time, the route was really enjoyable. This was my first multi-pitch free solo, and I was cool headed the whole time. I found that the efficiency of being alone is amazing, especially not having to haul in gear. Anyway the route is pretty cool for anyone [whether] it is your [first] multi-pitch lead or free solo. Also I encountered 2 bolts with SMC hangers that were pretty much in line with each other, was I on route? [Probably] not, I always get off route.

    Once at the top, I walked off and up hill about 50 feet to the northwest arete and climbed it to the top which was also a quite enjoyable route. I proceded to down climb the south east corner and back to my car.

    All said it was a great day, I soloed 3 routes in the same time it has usually taken me to climb Zig Zag 5.7 with a rope and partner (not [implementing] simu-climbing). Also 2 of the routes were on sight. Car to Car 3 hours.
    By Joey Wolfe
    Oct 25, 2007

    I linked this to what i thought was called "the Sky line Traverse"(actually "North Arete") all free solo. Makes for a great day out!
    By Ralph Bodenner
    Nov 23, 2008
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    Soloed this today, starting with the smooth chimney/cave at the end of the approach trail. You can climb out of the chimney to the left and stand on top of a chockstone, then exit up to a gully on the right. From here (rap slings nearby), I moved left onto the face and, after some flaky slab traversing, met up with a crack that had a well-traveled look. Fun routefinding between featured sections and cracks to the ridge.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

    Overall a fun and clean route reminiscent of the first pitch of the Direct East Face for its edges rather than jugs. I thought the start coming in from the left side of a short corner was the crux, and probably 5.6.
    By Forrest L.
    Aug 5, 2013
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

    I think started near the "official" start and went roughly straight up. This puts you closer to the far right side than onlined on MP. It was a bit harder and would have been mostly unprotected if I had brought a rope and partner.
    By David Tennant
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 10, 2015
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X

    This was a pretty fun route, and it's nice, 'cause you just walk-off the back when you get to the top (well, climb Class 4 down to the left). It's great if you want to avoid the traverse along the ridge top part of the Flatiron but still have a moderately long multipitch route.

    I did this in 4 full rope length pitches with a 60m. The first, third, and fourth pitches were moderately protectable in comparison to other routes on the Flatiron, but the second pitch, where you go right of the massive gully, was very difficult to protect, I must have had it run out about 100ft, and only placed two pieces before my belay station.

    Make sure you're going to be comfortable with that kind of situation before trying this route, it didn't seem very easy to traverse to the north to get off the route early, so you'll be committed after you start. I wouldn't recommend this as a good first multi-pitch route. I'd suggest Baker's Way, which was much more easily protected and is also near the same grade.
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Jun 15, 2015

    Seemed hard this morning...5.6.

    I agree with Tony.
    By Brian Carver
    From: Boulder, Co
    Aug 1, 2017

    Started at the horizontal horn and went straight up staying right of the gully. I pulled moves that were in the 5.4-5.6 range. They were definitely more involved than anything I did on the North Arete.

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